Grape Juices

Hvordan åbner man en flaske portvin med en ...fjer

2012-01-27T21:18:00.001+01:00

Frankrig - the journey ends

2012-01-16T23:28:00.004+01:00

Fransk hvid når det er bedst

Når man som vinentusiast kan vælge mellem vine fra hele verden, glemmer man engang imellem hvor fantastisk mangeartet vinlandet Frankring egentligt er! Et nærmere kik på atlaset afslører for enhver, at her findes (stort set) alle de bedste vin-typer. Og der skulle faktisk en lille privat smagning i gode venners lag til at få denne pointe på bordet. Konceptet var som altid - medbring en flaske og del oplevelserne med vennerne - og aftenens vine var alle franske. Sættet var Montrachet, og to røde fra det sydlige Rhone.

Puligny-Montrachet, Michel Coutoux 2007
Bouquet: smoky, ananas, lakrids og parfume. Smagen er olieret, sød (fersken), flot struktur og lang tør eftersmag. Virklig godt glas. indkøbt til 200dkk Theis Vine (tilbud). 91+P. Godt Køb

Domaine Saint Pierre Vacqueyras 2008
Bouquet: fad, brun farin, sveske, cognac, antydning af portvinsnoter, og benzin (svagt)!
Smag: lettere svovlet med en meget blød stuktur, så blød at man fornemmer at strukturen er holdt lidt oppe af alkoholen. Pebret eftersmag.
indkøbt til 119dkk. 87P Neutral.

Verdens dyreste vin-de-table

Verdens dyreste vin de table

Sættet blev afsluttet med en finurlig vin, som her skal anbefales. Kort sagt, kan man kalde denne Rhone vin for verdens dyreste vin de table. Ingen nedskrevne regeler er tilsyneladende fulgt her for at fremstille denne navnkyndige Les Roulieres. Ja vi kender end ikke årgangen, og idet hele taget er vinen svær at researche på. Jeg skal her frit citere fra en anden udenlandsk forhandler: Henri Bonneau (red: vinmageren) still decides each vintage which cuveés he will make - Somes one and some up to four.

Vi har fat i den den charmerende og uprætentiøse vinfremstilling med autentisk smag. Et hurtigt kik ind i Henri's vinkælder efterlader da heller ikke indtrykket af at den moderne vinverden med penge, markedsføring, og målrettet smagstilpasning har holdt sit indtog. Tværtimod. Advarsel stærke billeder her - men skøn vin!

Les Rouliers
Bouquet: rosin, sveske, lavendel, fad. Tanninerne har godt fat i smagsindtrykket.
indkøbt til 275dkk hos Erik Sørensen vin. Prisen er lidt høj, men herlig vin. 90P Godt køb

Bom, barato e bom proveito!

2012-01-09T18:16:00.002+01:00

En god portugiser med konkurrencestærk pris

God, billig og velbekomme!
For kort tid siden var der udsalg hos AtomWine på bl.a. portugisiske vine. Nogle endda helt nede på en flaskepris af runde 50kr. Dermed kan forventningerne ikke vokse ind i himmelen. Men heri gemmer der sig faktisk et rigtigt godt køb. Quinta da Chocapalha. Den britiske blogger og vinkritiker, Jamie Goode har også besøgt vingården og du kan læse hans indtryk her her.

Quinta da Chocapalha 2007

Druer: tinta roriz (tempranillo), touriga nacional, castelao, alicante bouschet og syrah.

Fermentation 10 dage i lagares (stenfade) og 18 md i franske fade.

Bouquet: mørke bær, lidt anis, og eucalyptus, og marcipan (mandler)

Smag: lidt sødlig på starten, overtages af afstemte tanniner. God struktur, tilpas syrlig og ikke ‘solet’ og ‘overvægtigt’. Konklusion: Godt køb 86P

Danske vinblogs anno 2012

2012-01-07T18:28:00.003+01:00

I jagten på den perfekte vin og den gode historie bruger jeg selv en del tid på at browse rundt på danske vinblogs. Det er foranderligt landskab, og mens nogle af de blogs jeg tidligere fulgte er i dvale er andre nye og spændende koncepter er dukket op.

2011 var heller ikke året hvor jeg fik skrivekrampe her på bloggen. Der var simpelthen for meget andet arbejde som skulle passes. Det er derfor blevet tid til et udsyn af de uafhængige danske vinblogs anno 2012. Jeg har valgt at opdatere den række af blogs jeg læser og har skønsmæssigt rangeret dem efter post-frekvens. Jeg gentager gerne at rækkefølgen er kun udtryk for et skøn, lige her og nu - og det er jo heller ingen konkurrence! Er din danske vinblog der ikke, så smid endelig en kommentar nedenfor.

Ugentlige post's:

Bobler - højaktiv blog hvor man kommer helt ned i kridtlaget af de champagne producerende vinstokke.
Wine Factory - Med mere 160 videoer samt et godt register over samtlige testede vine, har bloggen slået sig grundigt fast. Den slags kræver meget arbejde, og hatten af for arbejdet.
Snakvin - Siden kræver nok ikke nævneværdig introduktion for de fleste vin nørder.
Vinens Vilde Vesten - Nana Wang om livet og vinen i Californien. En slags 'Sideways epos' på blogform.
Piu Rosso - Dansk vinblog med et godt fokus på italiensk vin.
Vintanker.dk - en vinentuastists tanker og smag af verdens vine. Med 85 post sidste år kan du læse her mindst en gang om ugen.
Nebbiolo Junkie. Ny blog af Nikolai Søgaard om vine på Nebbiolo.
Druerne. Brian og Kim's vinanmeldelser og jagten på den perfekte bordvin.
Frederik Kreutzer's vin blog. masser af vinnoter og glæde ved god mad.

Posts (1-3 gange om måneden)

Rasmus Holmegaards vinblog - om smagsoplevelsernes anatomi. Velskrevne artikler.
Madwine - Mest om champagne, flotte fotos.
Simon Færch/Vinisten (tidl wine-lover.dk). Personlige noter og masser af kommentarer.
Frederik Kreutzers - blog fra Skjold Burne vin samt egen personlige blog.
Mads Jordansen, Winelab.dk - bloggen er ganske aktiv men beskrives bedst som værende gastro/gadget site. blogfrekvens om vine er moderat.

Posts (mindre end 1 om måneden)

TastingNotes - noter af kvalitetsvine eller slet pg ret vinskatte.
Tue Bach's vin blog.
Vinsmagninger.com. Henrik Ehlers vinblog '

også til en jeg ikke helt kan placere:

Vinomemo - For kort tid siden loggede jeg mig på igen efter lang tids fravær - (og ville så gerne undvære intro-speaken og musikken). Bag vino memo, som er en slags vin(kælder)netværk, ligger der helt sikkert et imponerende stykke kodearbejde bag. Men jeg fornemmer at sitet ligger meget stille, at konceptet evt ikke holdt. Det er muligt jeg er på afveje her, så smid en kommentar hvis sitet er aktivt og florer.

Lissabon rapporten 4: Alentejos ældste vinstokke

2012-01-02T11:29:00.002+01:00

Vinen er lavet af regionens ældste stokke

Dagen før jeg endnu engang må vende snuden hjem mod DK, nåede jeg prøve en af Portugals absolutte gode vine. Vinha da Ira er produceret fra en lille mark i Alentejo med vinstokke som er klassificeret som værende de ældste i hele regionen. Vinha da Ira kan oversættes direkte til 'Vredens druer', men ønologen Henrique Uva ønsker ingen anden analogi til Steinbeck's roman, end at den vandt nobelprisen i litteratur. De alderende vinstokke står på en enkelt parcel; Tahlao 25 (no. 25) og druerne udgør det typiske Alentejo blend: aragonez, touriga nacional, alfrocehiro, alicante bouschet.

Vinha da Ira 2004
Bouquet: Solbær, læder, tobaksblade, brun farin, og lidt stenfrugt og jern.
Smag: allerførste note er kakao, hvorefter syren begynder at tage fat, og eftersmagen hænger vægtløst. Strukturen er intakt og flot. Vinen er moden og muskuløs som bare fanden. Det er helt sikkert en af de bedste portugisiske bordvine jeg har haft glæden af i et glas, og bestemt værd at gå efter. ca 35-40€/fl, 94P

Godt nytår fra Portugal

Lissabon rapporten 3: Quinta das Lagrimas

2011-12-30T11:15:00.005+01:00

Coimbra

Det skulle tage hele 7år inden jeg nåede at besøge Coimbra, en af Portugals større byer, der også huser et af Europas ældste universiteter. Byen deles af floden Modego, som både har sit udspring og udløb i Portugal. På den ene side af floden finder man det gamle centrum med snirklede gader, katedraler og det gamle universitet. På den anden side findes der et særligt sted, hvor der for mere end 600 år siden udspillede sig et drama, som man stadig taler om i de Portugisiske krøniker; navnlig kærlighedsdramaet om tronarvingen Pedro og hans spanske elsker Ines. Det hele foregik på den smukke Quinta das Lagrimas hvor Ines blev brutalt myrdet da man frygtede at tronen ville falde på spanske hænder. Scenen, Quinta das lagrimas, er idag istandsat og drives som et af Portugals flotte pousadas (luksus hoteller), og resturanten er tildelt en michelin stjerne. Ikke ufortjent! Her følger bare en af menuerne med dertilhørende vine.

Starter

Starter; kastanje-shot (creme), frisk ost, og lakse-puff'. Hertil serveret Quinta do Valoreira, en Portugisisk brut. Boblerne var ikke uforglemmelige men særligt kastanje-shot'et var særklasse

Quinta do Cardo 2009, en lokal vin på druen, Siria (=Roupeiro). Det er første gang jeg prøver denne hvidvinsdrue alene. Bq: let frugtug, smør hyld og fad. smagen er tør, straight med en god struktur. 88P

Quinta do Cerrado 2009 på Encruzado. Bq: blomstret, fyrretræ, tropiske frugter. vinen føles let olieret og har tydelig smag af æble. 88P.

Herdade de Comporta Rose 2010.
bouquet af kirsebærjuice og tyggegummi. Ikke voldsom interessant. 82P

Herdade de Comporta 2007, Alicante bousquet, Aragonez (tempranillo) og trincadeira, den typiske Alentejo blanding. Bouquet af cedertræ, blåbær, læder. En ganske flot vin, man kunne have gået i Bordeaux på blindt. 89P

Herunder følger et par billeder af maden, som var uovertruffen

1 ret: husets rejesalat

2 ret: fiskesuppe

3 ret: stegt fisk i to slags hvidvinsauce

4 ret: And med årstidens grønt

5 ret: Dessert - mørk skovbund (is)

Lissabon rapporten 2: øjeblikke

2011-12-26T20:36:00.003+01:00

Almada i tåge

Bairro Alto

Murganheira

Costa da Caparica

Provinsmarked

Ameijoas, de er helt fantastiske, særligt med en vinho verde!!

Almada

Lissabon rapporten 1: Julekort fra Portugal

2011-12-24T10:05:00.004+01:00

Aftenstemning nær Carmo-ruinen ved Chiado, Lissabon

Det er 15 grader i morgenluften, og alligevel virker det lidt koldt i den tørre luft. Jeg er endnu engang i Lissabon for at fejre julen.
Det giver naturligvis mulighed for endnu engang at se hvad der har rørt sig på den Portugisiske vinscene. Blandt de store navne har jeg endnu ikke faldet over noget nyt, men blandt de små vine (hverdagsvine) har jeg afventet en ny bordvin fra Alentejo, og her er den så.

'Duas Pedras' er en ny bordvin fra Richard Maysons vingård 'Quinta do Centro' nær Portalegre. Vingården kan man kalde et givtigt bryllup mellem en dygtig ønolog Rui Reguinga og WS journalisten Richard Mayson. Jeg har længe været vild med vingårdens 'Pedra Basta' (mellemvinen i hans serie). Topvinen bærer navnet 'Pedra Alma', og den vist nok endnu på flasker. Nu er entry-level vinen til deres serie så endelig frigivet og 'Duas Pedras' er produceret på Touriga nacional, syrah, og et skævt viognier. Det utraditionelle mix giver lidt associationer til D'argenberg (laughin' magpie).

Duas Pedras: frugtbåret bq, også dybe noter. God balance. Vinen er 100% produceret på stål, og det greb gør at vinen skiller sig ud fra den traditionelle Alentejo mængde, som ellers er kendetegnet som værende kraftigt og muskuløs. Blindt ville man, indenfor Portugals regioner, tippe Douro. Fin balance. Prisen kan næppe skræmme 5.5€. 86P.

- Glædelig jul

Der er noget i gære..

2011-12-08T13:28:00.002+01:00

Parallelt med skattesagen herhjemme vokser en saftig skandale ude i den internationale vinverden.

Ultrakort så handler sagen om lyssky handler mellem en spansk vin-arrangør og et medlem fra ’Wine advocate’ holdet som sammen har forslået at arrangere et besøg til DO Valencia mod store summer. Summer som skulle betales af deltagende vinhuse.

Det kunne meget let tolkes hen i en retning af, at betaler man så kommer de internationale kritikere på besøg. Det siger sig selv, at sådan en sag er fuldstændig nedbrydende for ideen om at uafhængigt kritiker-organ (Wine advocate aka Robert Parker). Hele sagen ruller nu med skriv frem og tilbage og kan følges på bloggen her.

Take away vino fra Torvehallerne

2011-12-06T14:54:00.003+01:00

En sidste herlig knopskydning på torvehallerene er vinbaren Pate-Pate's stand. På et lille hjørne midt i myldret, hænger store skinker fra loftet og på baren hales der lækre tapas tallerker frem og tilbage.

Husets vin er fra det spanske vinhus ’Celler el Masroig’ og hedder ’Vi Novell 2010’. Vi er Montsant regionen, et randområde til den navnkundige Priorat region.

Den kække label med en udskåret gris passer perfekt til tapaskonceptet, og flasken er lavet af uhøjtidelig blanding af sydfranske druer: grenache og carignan (muligvis syrah også, men de skilter ikke med det!).

’Wine to go’

Har man handlet alverdens delikatesser ind kan man også tage husets vin med hjem for runde 60kr flasken. Det er jo ikke alverden og derfor blev jeg fristet for at se hvad Pate-Pate har fundet på det spanske atlas til sine kunder. Her er de første indtryk:

Bq: Blåbær, flækket fyr, tørre tobaksblade, samt grønne elementer af nyslået græs og mynte.

Smagen er lidt brændt, let pebret og med en syrlig fin eftersmag af noget mint. Vinen er rank og har en god figur. 87P

Konklusion: godt køb for 60kr.

Ny bog om Portugal

2011-11-18T14:04:00.001+01:00

Det var stor fornøjelse at pludselig falde over en hjemmesiden, hvori en post havde titlen, "Mit andet hjemland udgivet". Freelance journalist Bjarne Mouridsen har igennem mange rejser samlet en række øjebliksbilleder af Portugal sammen til en essaysamling.
Læsere af denne blog og Winebook.dk ved måske nok, at her skrives der mest om Portugals bordvine. Men rundt om hele glæden ved Portugals farverige gastronomi, er hele oplevelsen af landets sprog og kultur. Er man som jeg også håbløst forelsket i det lille land mod Atlanten, så virker bogen som den helt rigtige terapi her i mørketiden. Jeg glæder mig til at læse bogen i sofaen, alt imens jeg mine tanker vandrer på noget af det bedste jeg ved: at slentrer rundt i Lissabons snirklede gader uden rigtigt at skulle noget.
Du kan følge forfatteren Bjarne Mouridsens blog om Portugal her.

Efterårsvine fra hele kloden

2011-10-24T14:39:00.004+02:00

I denne weekend forgik der en lille BYOB smagning. Med frit tema kom vi godt rundt på kloden, bl.a. med en fransk klassiker til et biodynamisk back-to-nature indslag.

Ch. Haut Gravet 2000 (Bordeaux)

Druer: Merlot (70%), Cab. franc (20%), Cab sauvg. (10%).

Bq: rød frugt, blyant stenfrugt, blomstret, tyggegummi (jenka) og karamel.

En moden bordeaux fra højre flodbred som skulle bruge ganske lang tid til at lukke sig op. Men efter 2-3 timer i karaffel var det en meget overbevisende bordeaux som kastede ovenstående noter fra sig til næsen. Ved første vurdering fik den 88p+, men fik retfærdigvis et løft og kan godt score 90/91P. Købt i Kjær & Sommerfeldt i kommission 225kr/fl.

Chasseur 2009 (Sonoma)

Drue: pinot Noir (100%)

Bq: udpræget jordbær, brun farin, fyr/gran.

Smagen er tæt og kort med en mintede eftersmag. Mineralsk og særdeles drikkevenlig. Ikke typisk burgundisk. Flasken stammer fra americanwine.dk, som var et nyt og spændende bud på en forhandler for os, når man vil prøve vine fra den amerikanske øst eller vestkyst. 91/92P

Handlet hos www.americanwine.dk for 150kr/fl. Godt køb

Eksternt link: http://www.chasseurwines.com/

Les Paradetes (Conca de Barbera)

Druer: Sumol (monastrell/mouvedre, 60%), grenacha (39%) samt Madelena (1%).

Vinen er grumset og tåget når den hældes i glasset. Bouquet’en har noter af blyant, brun frain, metal, lidt svovl. Smagen er kølig, frugtbåret (jordbær), stadig gode tanniner. Det er en vin som ikke vil være international og det er tydeligt at vi her har med et biodynamisk projekt at gøre. 88P.

Rosforth & Rosforth 150kr/fl.

Blandede noter fra en blandet blind smagning - hold øje med Portugals 'Tributo'

2011-10-09T13:12:00.002+02:00

Zind-Humbrect Gewürtraminer 2007, 15% Alc. (100% gewürtraminer, Alsace)

Farve: korngul

Bq: ferskerner smør, parfumeret.

smag: olieret, tropefrugt. Absolut en vin man bliver venner med fra første sekund. Iøvrigt perfekt akkompagnement til de røgede kammuslinger

Point: 90+90+90+91

Prisgæt: 160/189/189

Forhandler: Erik Sørensen (179kr)

http://www.eriksorensenvin.dk/katalog/gruppe2/frankrig/alsacedomainezind-humbrecht/599907

Atalayas Crianza 2007 (100% Tempranillo, Spanien)

Bq: smør, fyr, karamel, cigarkassetræ

smag: sød, flødekaramel, med pebret eftersmag. Vinen er både varm/kold på en og samme tid. Interantional stil, kan virke oversøisk.

Point: 88+89+90+90

Forhandler: Erik Sørensen (140kr)

http://www.eriksorensenvin.dk/katalog/gruppe/spanien/riberadelduero/133607

Tributo 2009 (82% Syrah, 15 grenache, 3% viognier, 14.2 % alc, Portugal)

Bq: sødme, moskus, fyr, jordbund, sveske, rosin.

smag: Våd skovbund, chokolade, "agurk" Rank men også varm. "blå druer", sjæl.

Point: 93point

forhandler: Lokal købt i PT (28 eur)

http://www.coisasdoarcodovinho.pt/catalogsearch/result/?q=tributo

Tinto Figuero 15 2004 (100% tempranillo, Ribera del Duero, Spanien)

Bq: peber, lidt harpiks, vinsne blade, lys chokolade, og "urt"

smag: kirsebær, med stor krydret (pebret) eftersmag. Ren som at drikke "kold te"

Point: 92

Prisgæt: 200kr

forhandler: Brdr. D (350kr)

http://www.dvin.dk/shop/varebeskrivelse/p/figuero-15/b/45/?cHash=e90800cef9

Upcoming Portuguese Wine tasting

2011-03-07T21:36:00.000+01:00

Every year ViniPortugal host a great wine tasting at D'angle Terre in the center of CPH. If you haven't explored Portugals diverse table wines, then here is a free chance to try, in a lovely atmosphere.

The event is to be held the 14 of march from 16:30-18. To sign up pls visit the danish web page of Portuguese news/events. A similar event was covered on Jamie Goode wine blog, where a line of new surprises was tasted. I definitely look forward to go.

A great commercial - enjoy

2011-02-17T15:54:00.002+01:00

Back to Colares

2011-02-14T14:45:00.001+01:00

A rare good white made of Arinto and Malvasia

I just experienced a recent low tide in the wine rack, but nothing is so bad that its not good. Low tide is when you discover all the leftover bottles saved for yet another occasion.

I have kept one bottle in particular which I have held high expectations– a white wine bought directly in the small cooperative in Colares. I seem to recall that the wine was made out of a tiny production counting only 3600bottles. Grapes are wonderfully old traditional’s: Arinto and Malvasia, an equal mix of both.

Bq with notes of lemon, butter, pinapple and some nutty background. The taste is almost two-phased, fresh and fruit driven on top and with a more fat and nutty basis. Its surprisingly smooth, I did not expect such international taste in the smoothness. Again, a great surprise. Locally bought, 90P

Mexicansk Vin...

2011-02-12T01:24:00.003+01:00

Bagetikken af L.A. Cetto

Mexikansk vin..men vi er lige akkurat krøbet over på den anden side af den amerikanske grænse, og med lidt fantasi er der sikkert stadig skilte med tilbud og løfter om et forjættet land i begge retninger af vejen.

Nuvel vi er Mexico's sandede jorde, og med L. A. Cetto kan man lægge et helt nyt vinland til sit smags-CV, og et helt nyt land som sjældent repræsenteres i Danmark. Her laves der rødvin med C. sauvignon, som lægges på nye fade i 14 måneder, og som hviler på flaske i tre år. Når vi i dag skriver 2011, giver det ok mening med en flaskepost fra LA Cetto fra 2005.

L. A. Cetto 2005

Tung bq med mørke røde bær, tobaksblade, læder, mint, tørt hø. Lidt støv/kridt på toppen.

Hænger ok sammen. Overraskende let krop, lidt oxideret, men tung bouquet, og det er jo et charmerende træk. Ikke den tunge (solede) ørkenvin man kunne have frygtet, men dog heller ikke vin man husker, ...lige udover landet. 87P

Hail the Iberian Diversity

2011-02-07T17:47:00.002+01:00

Bastardo from Duero

Bastardo is an old and traditional Portuguese grape which has lost is value among wine growers. The grapes was greatly favoured before the phylloxera disaster, yet it is still found in little quantities of the mixed plantations in the Dao and Duero region. Its best described as an early ripening, low acidity and with high sugar content. Hence the grape is ideal for Tawny Port. It is also grown in small quantities on Madeira. Today it is reinveted in a few experimental vineyards (Mayson 2003).

Niepoort Projectos Bastardo 2008 (bottle, 1256 out of 1335)

Pale color in glass. Bouquet of red cherries, leather, pine wood. Very harmonic and velvet smooth, almost internationally designed smooth! Aftertaste of pebber. 89P

R. Mayson 2003. The wines and vineyards of Portugal. Mitchell Beazley, pp 1-354

En Sancerre i mængden

2011-01-30T10:00:00.004+01:00

Aftenens vin

En hurtig lille post. Jeg samlede igår en ung flaske Sancerre fra Domaine De La Garenne op fra HJ Hansen vin. Der er desværre lidt langt imellem at jeg smager vine fra Loire, men da aftenens menu var inspireret af den lettere del af det franske cousine faldt valget på denne vin let.
God (stor) og liflig bouquet af med masser af frugt, æble, pære, med strejf af noget mere eksotisk som mango og Ananas. På toppen ligger en fin note af Stjerneanis. Smagen liflig og let krydret. Jeg havde forventet lidt mere, men jeg er måske også mere til Chardonnay end Sauvignon blanc. Kort sagt: et straight godt glas hvid men huset er ikke en "forglem mig ej" oplevelse. 129 kr - 88P

The Puzzle of Portuguese wine

2011-01-25T20:18:00.001+01:00

Illustration by Edel Rodriguez

Thats the title of a recent article featuring Portuguese wine and gastronomy in Wall Street Journal. Link to the full article about the international potential of Portuguese wines with comments here.

Sylvaner - not for the average consumer

2011-01-23T13:55:00.004+01:00

Zellberg an Alsacian sylvaner with glass
sealing cap.

Three very different wines were tested last weekend, an amongst those were an Alsace Sylvaner, which is rather rare on the danish shelfs. Perhaps also for a reason, I will come back to that point. We also tried a funky grape mix from Argentina which is worth seeking out as an alternative for a right bank Bordeaux. Finally we made tasted the 2007 Reserva vintage of the old Cartuxa monastry from Portugal.

Zellberg l'Hermitage 2008, Domaine Julien Meyer
The wine is clear with an olive glance. The bouquet presents itself with two distictive notes, pear cider and oxidated sherry. Also a note of wet wood and a less charming egde of petrol or medicine cabinet. The taste is very fruity with notes of pear peel.

This is clearly a wine for those who seek something different. Even the sealing is made with glass, something we have not seen in prestigious wines such as this. In conclusion, this wine may well be classified as an art'y wine and we are way off the main roads of winemaking. The bottle is found among the selected wines from the famous restaurants NOMA and RELÆ in Copenhagen. We acquired one bottle as a gift (DK price is 135kr). We found the wine hard to classify and although it has character, it did not score well amongst us. Points averaged at 78P.

Clos de los Siete 2008

The wines of the evening

Notes of leather, black strawberries, moist cellar, vanilla. The taste is very smooth (almost designed) with notes of liquirice with a nice dry acidic finish.

It is clearly a wine for an international market, and the product does not appear unique upon first tasting. However, the wine is assembled with great mix bordeaux grapes and syrah placed on top of a main body consisting of Malbec. The label reads 56% malbec, 21% merlot, 10% Cabernet S. 11% Syrah and 2% petit verdot. The wine is made by Michel Rolland who has a long career in bordeaux wines, and he seem to have had a clear finger print on right banked taste of this wine. The wine was bought for 160kr and we scored it 89P.

Cartuxa Reserva 2007
Power full nose of pine wood, tobacco leaves, coffe on a base of barnyard. The taste is smooth, restrained and notes of licorice.
It clearly plays with its muscles in the glass but upon drinking it is beautifully restrained. We are not dealing with a ribena bomb, but a wine of high authentic class. Available in Denmark via the Portuguese wine cellar for 237kr. 91P

Bairrada simple and different

2011-01-09T15:46:00.001+01:00

The Portuguese wine region Bairrada lies in the shade of the prestigeous regions counting Duero, Dão and Alentejo. However, a little research may well be rewarded. I came across a simple and cheap Campolargo product "Faro" (eng: sniff) - with no details given of grapes. I am sure the bottle is a result of a local mix.

Campolargo Faro 2008
is slight pale red with a bouquet of red cherries, strawberries, spices and brown sugar. The taste fruitdriven with taste of "kirsch" and a dry finish with a touch of almond essence.

I quite like this, as it stands out of the "bulk taste" you experience among similiar priced wines in Douro or Alentejo. The wine was bought for 5Eur.

Portuguese old style, new style and freestyle

2011-01-08T20:23:00.014+01:00

Viniportugal at Praça do Comércio

I started my long awaited Lisbon journey off with a flu, but came out on the other side this morning and was able to explore downtown again. Besides scouting out at a few garrafeiras, I also visited viniportugal in Praça do Comércio. At Viniportugal anyone is welcome to try wines for free, all they ask is your feedback. Featured regions in this month were Lisbon, Alentejo and Dão. Here are my notes on a handfull of wines that I tried..

Quinta do Boiçao 2007

Arinto in great hands

100% Arinto

Nose of exotic fruits, flowers and nuts. Taste is light and fresh with notes of applejuice, yet finalize with notes of something creamy/nutty that lasts (+30sec). This is a great wine and I had no idea that Arinto could be this good. Quinta do Boição also produces reds and this appears to be a producer to look out for. 88P

Sarmentu 2008

Alfrocheiro, T.roriz (Tempranillo) & Jaen (Mencia)

Nose of dark red berries, leather and a piff of “sourness”. The taste is rounded and well structured. To me this wine represent a perhaps modern, but anonymous style. 84P

Quinta da Fata classic 06

Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro preto, T.roriz & Jaen (Mencia)

Bouquet of red cherries, savory notes on a base of wet soil. The wine has a great structure, and while the bouquet weighs heavy in the glass, the wine is simply feather light. It reminded me somewhat of a Northern Bourgogne wine. I have been following Quinta da Fata for some years, and I keep wondering why this wine/brand is not doing better on the national and international markets. Quinta da Fata is even hard to find in Lisbon. It's old Dão wine at its best and 'a-dont-miss´wine in my book. 90P (sells at 7Eur at Viniportugal)

Two great reds and one forgettable

Quinta da Fata Reserva 2007

Touriga Nacional (50%), Alfrocheiro preto (15%), T.roriz (10%), Jaen (10%) & Trincadeira (10%)

Red cherries, leather, salted meat, and notes of barnyard. The taste is somewhat sweeter than the classic 2006 vintage. the taste is rounded and elegant. Please also read another review of this great and quite unknown wine on the Catavino site. 91P (sells at 9 Eur at Viniportugal)

Campolargo Dão 2007

Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, T.roriz (Tempranillo) & Pinot noir

Bouquet of strawberries, blood, wet stones, flinty, and barnyard/wild ferment.

Taste is well balanced. A new note came on the aftertaste that I did not pin down…till next time. However, Mario Campolargo has certainly made a flagship among Dão wines with this particular wine. It bows for Bourgogne, and I love it. 92P

- anders

Off to Lisbon

2011-01-03T20:01:00.001+01:00

Happy New Year. I am only one day away from Lisbon and tryouts of new Portuguese wines.
Unfortunately I have not pre-ordered bottles, but with some luck I may still get my hands of interesting bottles. For instances new Niepoorts Projects (Curios about Bastado 08'), new 'vinho verdes' or to see whether Richard Maysons Pedra Alma from Qta. do Centro has been released.

So a new Lisbon Report 2011 awaits on the site.

Merry Christmas

2010-12-20T22:32:00.004+01:00

a favourite classic of mine. Whats yours?

to all of you wine appreciators browsing by Grapejuices.

Its been a funny year. First half of the year we had more time to share our wine thoughts among you. The beginning of the second half was more stressy and therefore posts only rarely appeared. Now we are back, and with eyes wide open and looking straight into the new year, we promise to share wine thoughts with pleasure and curiosity.

We enter our 4th year of the blog, a little idea that kept growing. Yet, as I soon travel off on christmas vacation, my head spins on which wine (or perhaps wines) to enjoy on this years chistmas eve.

Hidden away backhome lies Portuguese bottles of Barca Velha 2000, Ferreinha 98, some Niepoort's redoma 05 and an italian brunello (a classic for me) La Poderina 2001 (I ran out of 97:)), so my cellar picking may very well be among those bottles for the roast, the duck, the fireplace and piano. Merry Christmas and please share with us what you will enjoy?
/Grapejuices @ anders

A Chardonnay Secret: a little Yeast making a big Difference

2010-12-16T23:09:00.008+01:00

A chardonnay with a secret

….Imagine that you are sitting at a blind tasting among fellow wine passionados and served a great white wine. Notes in the glass are: exotic fruits nectar, citrus and nuts (hazel). The taste is so finely balanced that it touches perfection, between an apple/pear freshness and a sweet creamyness of caramel that make you go for another sip. Thoughts spin; it’s a wine most certainly worth 92 points, perhaps more...

With all your best, it must be a Chardonnay from Bourgogne! But the truth could not be more wrong. The grapes are in fact from the antipode of Northern Europe, from New Zealand. The sealing is a screw cap and the label reads KUMEU RIVER, MATE’S VINEYARD 08. It turns out to be a 55 NZ dollar wine (about 230dkk) and certainly worth it. Here I surrendered, threw the prejudices overboard and enjoyed what I may best describe as an overseas Chablis.

A Microscopic Garden on a New Zealand grape

But the New Zealand Chardonnay grapes also keep a secret. A secret only revealed because of the high quality of the wines from Mate's vineyard. A few years ago, New Zealand researchers discovered a new species of yeast with origins from Mate's vineyard, because of the high fruit potential of the wines. Tests were initiated to identify the "taste-maker" in the garden of micro organisms growing on the Chardonnay grapes. The search revealed a new single celled yeast with promsing result's to boost the fruity flavours.

Today, all this went down in history and the biological origins of the slight and tiny tastemaking yeast from Mate’s vineyard is about to impact the global white wine market. The yeast has been commissioned by one of the front runners of world leading companies in wine products, Chr. Hansen, and may now be applied directly in the fermentation process in world wide wine production.

The yeast is released under the name FrootZen, an abbrevation of "Fruit", "Boost" and "Frozen". It is added alive to the wine batch during the fermentation and may now make a difference on global white wine production. / anders

Europa holder

2010-11-28T14:32:00.021+01:00

Aftenens vine i rækkefølge

Europa kom klart bedst ud af denne vinsmagning hvor navnligt et oversøisk indslag faldt tungt.

Schoenbourgh Riesling 2007

Bouquet af kandiseret violer, stjerne-anis, og ananas. Smagen har frished med noget æble/pære islet først, og den vedholder en flot mineralitet. Overordnet set holder vinen et meget flot forløb og den præsenterer riesling flot. Juuls vinhandel 165 kr / 92P

Beaune 1 Cru 2005 Louis Jadot

Bouquet af røde bær, jordbær/hindbær, noget sveske. Vinen har en flot kølig pint stil. Uhrskov vinhandel 189kr / 90P

Rusden Christines Grenache 2008

Bouquet med stokrose, hvid chokolade og massiv næse af ribena og blomme. Hvad vinen har i massiv bouquet savnes dog i strukturen. Vinen mangler syre og de 15.5% alc falder tungt. Mere info om vinen fra købsstedet Oxholm vin 209kr / 86P

Sito Moresco 2004

Bouquet af karamel, læder, vanilie, chokolade. Flot struktur med godt tanninbid. købt i Italien (pris i DK 340kr) / 91P

Vinsmagningen bød også på et ekstra-nummer af Pedra basta 07, en totalt ukendt portugiser som i fremtiden vil trække store overskrifter. Vinen har været på bloggen før, men kan desværre kun købes i udlandet. Men hvor er det et forrygende godt glas.

Hvordan rates din vinkælder?

2010-11-18T19:45:00.002+01:00

Winespectator - tidligere issue

Wine spectator (WS) har i disse dage fjernet firewall’en og lægger alle rankings frem på bordet på alverdens vine. Åbningen af hjemmesiden er et kig ind i WS elektroniske arkiver for alle som ikke har abonnement på bladet og hjemmesiden.

Det er en kærkommen lejlighed til at tjekke jeres flasker hjembragt fra ferier, gaver fra onkel Jørgen, eller sidste års firmajulegave. Der er fri access indtil d 28 November – klik her.

/Drud

Spar 30kr og lad miraklet udeblive

2010-11-16T19:16:00.010+01:00

Tredjevinen Petrolo (th) vs Torrione, andenvinen (tv) fra Tenuta di Petrolo

Det er prisforskellen mellem på en flaske Torrione 07 og Petrolo 07 fra samme toscanske hus da de for nylig var på tilbud. Vi har her at gøre med 2 og 3 vinen fra Petrolo hvis første vin er supertoscaneren Galatrona på 100% merlot.

Anden vinen, Torrione, er lavet på 100% sangiovese er en særdeles herlig oplevelse (se tidligere anmeldelse på bloggen). Jeg er da også personligt meget begejstret for sangiovesedruen som i min optik kan producere nogle af de mest elegante vine på kloden. Årgang 07 af Torrione har scoret 94P i Winespectator, og huset holder dermed et meget flot niveau. Så langt så godt.

Men hvordan er så tredjevinen? Indrømmet så kendte jeg slet ikke til tredjevinen ”Petrolo di Toscana IGT”, og den er produceret på den lidt finurlige blanding 70% sangiovese og 30% merlot.

Petrolo di Toscana IGT 2007

Bouquet af mørke kirsebær, rose, læder, tobaksblade, lidt farin og sherry. Først opleves smagen som rabarber-kompot og slutter tørt, som hænger lidt.

86P, 69kr/fl ved køb af 12fl

Miraklet udeblev, og vi har her at gøre med en vin hvor prisen på 69kr/fl går hånd i hånd med oplevelsen. Derimod er oplevelsen er Torrione særdeles stor og herfra anbefales det at man ikke sparer men går efter 2 vinen (årgang 07 eller måske den nye 08). / drud

The roasted coast

2010-11-12T11:17:00.005+01:00

Cote Rotie...we meet too seldomly!

At my wedding with Birgitte back in 2005, we received a few interesting bottles from the French part of the family. Yesterday we decided to open one of them and the choice was the bottle from Cuilleron who is based in the Cote Rotie of the northern part of the Rhone valley. The wine was a Cote Rotie "Bassenon" 2002. Although the winemaker Yves Cuilleron is mostly known for his excellent whites, his collection of red wines seem to get quite a few positive remarks on the way.

The Bassenon is made from a mix of 90% Syrah and 10% Viognier and stands clear, vivid red in the glass. The nose gives a clear scent of black pepper (the trademark of many Syrah-based wines), sour cherries, some earthy elements with iron in the foreground and a touch of barnyard in the back. In the mouth this wines is first and foremost elegant and gives a good impression of why the Cote Roties are considered the queens of the Rhone valley in contrast to the more masculine Hermitage wines. Considering that 2002 is generally a weak vintage of the Rhone wines, there is still a hint of some ripe black cherries and a complex mix of spices making this wine very compelling. Surely this wines calls for a reintroduction in a more successful vintage. 91p

/Mads

A few wines from Austria

2010-11-08T11:09:00.001+01:00

As part of the foodbloggers symposium 2010 arranged by Rasmus Holmgård, a winetasting with focus on Austria was later held one evening back in October. The event was supported by the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, to broaden the minds of danish food- and winebloggers to also include this lesser known corner of the European wine production.

The wines we tasted came in the following order:

Prager Riesling Smaragd Achleiten 2008, Wachau

This is one of the top producers of Austrian riesling and a very powerful wine to start out with. The lighting could have been better (it was quite dark), yet the wine appeared to have nice golden hue. In the nose it was mouthwatering with a remarkable blend of fruits, white flowers and minerals. In the mouth there was an immediate acid attack followed up by a plentiness of fruits that I have seldom tried before. The wine seemed a bit awkward in the mouth, a bit fat and the minerality was sort of hiding behind the other flavors. Still I have no doubt that this will develop into a magnificent wine in say 5-10 years from now. 92p

229 DKR., Bergman Vinimport

Wieninger Nussberg Alte Reben Gemischter Satz 2008, Wien

Whereas most wines from Austria are made from just one grape variety, this wine is a mix of several and thus called ”Gemischter”. Quite spicy in the nose, with some white pepper and lemon. There were the same elements in the mouth but also a green sort of unripeness that I was not particularly fond of. Plenty of minerals but not really a wine that tickles my fancy. 87p

130 DKR., Philipson Wine

F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd ”von den Terrassen” 2005, Wachau

Yet again a top producer, but this time a wine made on the grape grüner veltliner. Lots of spices, including the trade mark of grüner veltliner -white pepper, and white fruit in the nose. Again I found a green unripeness in the mouth but also lots of minerals. 90p

189 DKR., Østrigsk Vinimport

Tement Zieregg Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Südsteiermark

This wine gave me green apples and vaseline!!!! (yep that is a first for me in a wine). Quite spicy and complex but seemed a bit unbalanced. 88p

251 DKR., Østrigsk Vinimport

Franz Strohmeier Schilcher ”Trauben, Liebe und Zeit” 2008, Weststeiermark

Very fresh and clean in the nose with lots of strawberries and red currant. In the mouth the first impression was a serious acid attack followed by same red fruits as from the nose. Lots of spices but the main focus is the mouthwatering acidity. An interesting rosé. 89p

127,50 DKR., Østrigsk Vinimport

Moric Blaufränkisch 2007, Mittelburgenland

Very pinot noir like in the nose, with dark raspberries and strawberries, but more spicy. The same in the mouth. No doubt that this producer has been thinking of Bourgogne while making this wine and it is a great success. For me this was the wine of the night although Prager came in a close second. 92p

260 DKR., Österreich

Claus Preisinger Pannobile 2007, Neusiedlersee

In contrast to the previous wine, this wine was much heavier with darker fruits and much more wood from the barrels. This is a well made wine that aims to please, and it does but I must say that I found it utterly uninspiring. 90p

245 DKR., Österreich

Alois Kracher No.8 Welschriesling TBA “Zwischen den Seen” 2001, Neusiedlersee

A trockenbeerenauslese made from welschriesling (which has nothing to do with riesling). Spicy clean nose. This is a very sweet wine but the acidity has a nice kick to it which keeps the wine on the straight and narrow. Plenty of tropic fruits like mango but also some caramel or burnt sugar. 92p

285 DKR., Bergman Vinimport

After the official tasting we had a number of great cheeses and more Austrian wines that did not take notes of. In all this event was a great success with plenty of opportunity to meet and talk to other food and wine fanatics.

/Mads

Jorden rundt i vinens verden

2010-10-31T10:50:00.012+01:00

Aftenens vine

Louis Jadot Clos de Loyse 2008

Vi lagde ud med en lille Chablis. Louis Jadot Close de Loyse 2008, som hurtigt blev gættet. Næse med nødder, smagen dog noget mere frisk med æblenoter. Et fint glas, 86P. Købt for 130kr, vine.dk.

Thomas Fogarty 2007 Pinot Noir Rapley Trail

Ingen tvivl om at man her har at gøre med en ny verdensvin! Næse med jordbærsaft, rosiner, blomme i madera og svage toner af stald. Rund og fyldig med smag af hvid chokolade. Vinen lægger afstand til Bourgogne og har den karakterstiske sødme rettet mod det amerikanske marked. Det er en rigtig amerikaner, ukompliceret og elegant, og måske bedre beskrevet som en "pornovin med læderindtræk". Der er kun lavet 125 kasser af netop '07 Rapley trail. 94P, 50$ (gave)

Conte Bacco 2004

Vinen snød os lidt i starten, og smagte som en super stram chianti. Alle smagsnoterne lå tætpakket og var svære at adskille fra hinanden. I glasset har vinen duft af jern, rust, stenfrugt. Eftersmagen er lidt bitter og garvesyren hænger. Denne vin kan snildt ligge 10 år mere. 89P, 130kr (gave)

Chateau Camensac 2006

Tankerne om hvor denne vin hørte hjemme var her også ude og vende den nye verden, inden vi hurtigt kom i Bordeaux. Vi har haft netop denne vin på blindsmagning tidligere. Vinen er rundet godt til, - virklig drinkable, og med næse af brun farin, pibetobak, læder, våd jord. Smagen er i fin balance og med fadnoter. 90P, 200kr Erik Sørensen

Ekstra nummer - Vinum Africa 2006

Vi nåede også at smage en sydafrikaner som er produceret til at erobre "peberbøfsegmentet" i Danmark. Vinum Africa er glat oplevelse blottet for personlighed, og for sine 99kr har man købt fred på middagsbordet. Navnet og designet skal appellere til safari- og stammedans-associationerne, men de udeblev for panelet. Vinen har en næse med noget peber, tobak/røg, og "kongen af danmark". Smag af brændte figner, tørret abrikos og røg. / drud

There is village and then there is village

2010-10-22T21:53:00.004+02:00

Of the wines from the southern part of the rhone valley, the Chateauneuf du Pape is probably the appellation that has the largest reputation. And a well deserved one too. Often these wines a large and full-bodied with lots of spice and often quite high in alcohol. Unfortunately these wines are also quite expensive, leaving many to seek for cheaper alternatives. As is seen for the Italian wines Amarone, Barolo and Brunello, a number of producers have discovered that there is a market for cheap Chateauneuf du Pape. These wines are, however, not only cheap to buy but appears cheap in the glass as well, where the only resemblance to the majestic wines of Chateauneuf du Pape is the name.

This evening I enjoyed another alternative. Instead of a cheap wannabe, I opened a bottle of Mas de Boislauzon, Cotes du Rhone Village ”Les Deux Chênes” 2006, which is in the expensive range for this, the lowest, appellation. Often wines labeled Cotes du Rhone Village can be purchased for as little as 4 euros, where this particular wines is around 12 euros. This wine is made in the same way as their Chateauneuf ”Tradition” (which we have tasted earlier), the difference being that some of the grapes are harvested from outside of Chateauneuf du Pape.

A compact wine with lots of black and red berries. Herbe de provence and a nice touch of some medicinal like in the background. The wine is four years old, but seems to have plenty of vigor to develop further over the next 3-5 years from now. The wine was enjoyed over two nights accompanying a dinner with broiled moose with juniper, lingon berry and roasted brussel sprouts, and the second night boeuf bearnaise. 89 p

/Mads

A Mediterranian Evening with a Douro wine

2010-10-19T19:01:00.008+02:00

I have had a few Portuguese bottles lying around with some age, making them vulnable for causal picking, and tonight one of them were up for test. Calabriga 04.

Clearly vintage '04' does classify as old in many other countries in the old world, but so far, and from my experience, many portuguese does not evolve tremendiously. The wine was accompanied with traditional paio, presunto, bread from Portugal.

For my taste, Calabriga, is a very typical Douro wine. The color is deep red, and notes were dark berries, herbs, hints of moist cellar, 'minty' and dry tobacco leaves. At first the taste appear rounded, a bit inky, filly, but ends up dry and spicy.

These were the notes from the first evening tasted. Its a fine wine, without being outstanding. 88P

Away for a while

2010-10-10T11:14:00.004+02:00

Wine web surfers passing by Grapejuices will for sure have noticed the silence here on the site, recently. Bear with us, but us behind the site has been struck by a huge load of work, and hence Grape juices has had an exsistence in the shaddows. The good news is that are more good wines than ever out there to explore, and soon posts will appear again. Hope to see you around on the site. / Grape J

Domaine Aalsgaard: Interview med Lars Hagerman

2010-06-09T13:53:00.013+02:00

En kold, fugtig vind fra vest slår os i møde da vi stiger ud af bilen. De bare marker omkring os, har krænget deres mørke muld op i den spæde sols svage stråler og overalt stikker de første spæde skud deres lysegrønne hoveder op. En let genkendelig skurrende lyd fanger min opmærksomhed og jeg ser et ravnepar hvor hannen er ved at genopvække hunnens interesse fra sidste år. Med en næsten naturstridig flugt stiger og falder han så let at hunnen ikke kan undgå at lægge mærke til ham. Jo den er god nok, foråret er på vej.

På en bakketop i det nordlige sjælland bliver vi varmt modtaget af vinpioneren Lars Hagerman, der med sin klingende skånske accent byder os velkommen til Domaine Aalsgaard. Det er fra første øjekast let at se, at han ivrigt har imødeset forårets komme og nu næsten ikke kan vente med at komme i gang med årgang 2010. Således er samtlige 2000 vinstokke, jævnligt fordelt på sorterne Ortega, Madeleine Angevine, Kerner, Siegerribe og Solaris, allerede blevet beskåret og bundet op. De mere end 10 tons hestemøg er nænsomt fordelt rundt om de enkelte stokke og snart skal de mellemliggende rækker pløjes for at forhindre at ukrudtet skal få overtaget over de spæde vinskud.

Lars: ”Men senere får rækkerne skam lov til at vokse frit. Det bidrager til biodiversiteten og fordrer et sundt mikroklima der hindrer diverse svampe og øger kvaliteten af druerne”.

Jo, jo de næsten 40 år som marinebiolog kan ikke fornægtes og det skinner da også igennem at det på Domaine Aalsgaard er naturen der skal gøre det meste af arbejdet. Således bruger Lars kun et minimum af kunstgødning og sprøjtegifte, ligesom at tilsætning af sukker under gæringsprocessen, også kaldet chaptalisering, for så vidt muligt bliver undgået. Han fortæller mig at nogle producenter, herunder også danske, går så vidt som at tilsætte importeret druemost til deres vine.

Lars: ”En ting er at tilsætte sukker. Det hæver bare alkohol niveauet, men det ændrer ikke væsentligt på smagsbilledet i vinen. Med druemost så tilsætter man jo smag. Vinen er ikke længere det den giver sig ud for at være”.

Man kan tydeligt mærke at emnet har været diskuteret før og at Lars har taget et klart standpunkt. Vin skal smage af hvad den er lavet af, hvor den kommer fra og hvem der har lavet den. Arbejdet med vinen ligger først og fremmest i marken hvor druematerialet er alt afgørende for kvaliteten. Det er muligt at tilføje lidt ekstra hjemme i ”kælderen”, men ofte forvolder man mere skade end gavn. I Danmark vil disse principper typisk udmønte sig i små syrerige vine med relativt lavt alkohol, hvilket ligger meget langt fra de ønsker som en gennemsnits vinforbruger ofte er på jagt efter. Med et så forholdsvis lille antal potentielle købere kunne man næsten frygte at der slet ikke er en fremtid for dansk vin.

Lars: ”Der er en fremtid, om end jeg ikke er så optimistisk som mange andre i branchen og jeg tror der er mange der vil blive skuffede i de kommende år. Jeg tror udviklingen vil komme til at ligne hvad vi har set i England, hvor man først så en voldsom opblomstring af producenter med alt for høje forventninger til kvalitet og fortjeneste. Grundet den dårlige kvalitet og ringe omsætning, gik mange af disse vingårde konkurs i årene der fulgte. Engelsk vin oplevede en lille opblomstring igen senere, hvor det dog primært var de oprindelige pionerer der viste sig at have overlevet. Ligeledes ser vi allerede nu, at det kniber med omsætningen af vin fra visse producenter og der er, så vidt jeg ved, 2 eller 3 store vingårde til salg for øjeblikket.”

Domanie Aalsgaard producerer i omegnen af 2000 flasker (0,5 L) om året og alt bliver solgt. Selv er Lars er ikke tvivl om, at de trofaste kunder til dels skyldes en konstant og god kvalitet, men også relativt moderate priser der ligger langt under de 4-500 kr som nogle danske vinproducenter ellers mener deres vine er værd. Grundet en langsom opbygning af marker og udstyr, har Lars været i stand til at undgå fordyrende lån og derved holde omkostningerne nede i modsætning til mange af de nystartede vinproducenter. Samtidig står han som ene mand for hele produktionen, så lønudgifter er der heller ikke meget af.

Lars: ”Jeg kender flere i Danmark der producerer rigtigt fine vine, men 4-500 kr flasken er de altså ikke værd. Så køber kunden jo vinen mere som et kuriosum for derefter aldrig at vende tilbage. Det er der jo ikke megen forretningsmæssig fremtid i.”

Lars er da også fastbesluttet på at fortsætte udviklingen af Domaine Aalsgaard i samme stil som hidtil. Produktionen skal ikke være større, da der er rigeligt arbejde i de 2000 stokke allerede. Han vil heller ikke til at lave mousserende vin, da produktionen er for teknisk krævende og dyr. I stedet satser han på at udvikle og forfine de 5 hvide vine han allerede har i sit sortiment og han har især stor tiltro til en relativt ny sort, Solaris, der modner tidligt og giver et højt sukkerindhold.

Lars: ”Jeg fik sendt Solaris 2008 til en vurdering i Tyskland. Den blev virkelig flot modtaget og 2009 ser ud til at blive mindst lige så god”.

Desværre var hele beholdningen af Solaris 2008 solgt for længe siden og 2009 var endnu ikke kommet på flaske. I stedet fik jeg mulighed for at smage hans Ortega 2008. En fin lille vin der dufter forsigtigt af hylde- og æbleblomster samt en lidt krydret form for stikkelsbær. Vinen føles behagelig i munden med en fin stringent syre og lidt mineraler. Den ville helt sikkert passe godt til en stille stund på terrassen, eller hvorfor ikke til et stykke dampet torsk, blomkål moset med dild og fløde samt nye kartofler. Så bliver det vist heller ikke mere dansk.

/Skrevet for winebook.dk af Mads Eggert Nielsen

Old luxurious Bordeaux

2010-05-23T22:40:00.011+02:00

Last thursday, we paid a visit to Claus Oxholm vin, which indeed will be printed into our memories. The event took place in Claus' shop in the afterhours with personal stories unfolded from each Chateau and a visit to his private cellar. The theme for the visit was ol' Bordeaux, and this was the program:

Chateau Fieuzal, 1995 Pessac Leognan
Rauzan Segla, 1998 Margaux 2 Cru Classe
Gran Puy Lacoste, 1994 Pauliac 5 Cru Classe
Pontet Canet, 1996, Pauliac 5 Cru Classe
Ducru Beaucaillou, 1999 Saint Julien 2 Cru Classe

All wines carefully selected by our host Claus Oxholm, and aquired from previous jobs in the late 90'ties. The youngest wine had 11 years in the bottle, and all wines were perfectly mature. Here are a few scribled notes from a delightfull tasting:

Fieuzal. Slightly bretty with great dry aftertaste held in minutes. My favorite

Rauzan. Soft Bordeaux style, velvet egdes. More leather, coffee, black currant.

Gran Puy-Lacoste. Powerfull bouquet of leather and vanilla, intense yet tight wine

Pontet-Canet. Powerfull oppulent with clear notes of Liquirice.

Ducru Beaucaillou. Darker berries (than the previous), still complex nuances, and clear notes of menthol and mint.

/ Anders

Champions Wine

2010-05-22T11:58:00.008+02:00

For anyone with football passion, tonight is the night. At 19 o'clock the finalist of 09/10 Champions league (CL) meet in Madrid. Although the game will be extremely exciting, it was not entirely the final I wished for. With Bayern and Inter, both teams playing quite tactical, it already looks as if the final is going to be won with a single or few goals.

Tonight I am with Bayern and hence my CL wine is German. Although Inter has done a fine job, Italian football is way to often too defensive and tactical for my liking. So I got my hands on a few bottles Schäfer Spätburgunder, a lovely red summer wine and a wish for a good game. / Anders

Danske vinblogs - en opdateret liste

2010-05-17T17:32:00.036+02:00

Det er blevet tid til et pæredansk indlæg. Igennem den Irske hjemmeside, Sour grapes, blev jeg inspireret til at lave et lignende indlæg. Listen af danske ikke kommercielle vin-sites vokser og der blogges om vin i Danmark som aldrig før. Er du ikke på listen, er hermed en undskyldning. Skriv gerne adressen i kommentarfeltet. Så opdaterer jeg listen.

Winebook, baggrundsartikler/forum/konkurrencer
Winefactory et dansk bud på Wine library tv-konceptet/blog. Der er sælges dog også vine igennem firmaet mywine.dk
Snakvin, en samlingsportal for stort og småt. Mange brugere.
Vinomemo Vinens facebook. Hook op med dine venner og kig i deres vinkældre.
Tastingnotes, detajlerede noter om ekskusive vine fra en gruppe passionerede vinentusiaster.
Rolfs Vinblog privat vinentusiast med præcise noter.
Holmsgaard's hip som hap om smagsoplevelsens anatomi om meget mere. Tjek hans artikler ud.
Frederik Kreutzer om skold-burnes vine og egen blog. Frederik arbejder for Tasterwine.
Henrik Ehlers vinanmeldelser
Terkel's vinanmeldelser
Madwine mest om Champagne men også gode vine (nb. flotte fotos).
Bobler Fransk familie som producere Champagne og blogger på dansk.
E lse Bjørn om Champagne.
Champagnefreak, Jakobs noter om Champagne
Vinforum. En lidt ældre hjemmeside. Med auktioner, artikler og links til butikker mm. Bloggen synes dog at være gået i stå.
Vinbloggen Ny blog om vinsalg i Danmark (også konkurrencer).
Tue Bach & Petersen bliver klogere på vin. Ny dansk vinblog, ærlig talt.
winelover.dk
Druerne.dk - På sporet efter scoopet i Dansk bordvin.

/ Anders

A Tasmanian Pinot

2010-05-14T22:48:00.012+02:00

Stumbled on a Tasmanian Pinot in "Waitrose". I never tasted pinot from there and had to give it a try. Although found on a supermarket shelf it is admittedly quite well done.

Ninth Island Pinot noir 2008

Color vague transperant red (like Spätburgunder). Bouquet of red cherries, perfume, wet soil along with vague hints of wild ferment. Taste is mineral, with notes of iron and blood. The finish is dominated by an acidity somewhat stonefruity which lasts. All in all, a fine cool climate pinot. 13€ locally bought, 89P /anders

A book I just read

2010-05-14T11:34:00.004+02:00

Just a quick note from London. Somebody decieded long ago, that books had to cost a fortune in Denmark, regardless the quality. So whenever I'm outside the borders of Denmark, I always find pleasure in exploring book shops. Yesterday, I found Oz Clarkes "Grapes & Wines" (updated and revised version) for 17€.

I turned the pages quickly to see whether it had any interest for person who already has a whole shelf full of books with wines. And it does.

"Grapes & Wines" is actually a neat handbook which deals with 300 grape varieties through great photos, texts and illustrations. There are nice maps (not as good as Hugh Johnsons), interesting anecdotes, and moreover detailed planting data on the every larger international grape. The first 30 pages are dedicated to a larger overview of wine production today, the story of wine, and hereafter you explore 300 pages with describtions of grape varieties from Abourio to Zinfandel. Some grapes are only described with 3-4 lines while others get a whole chapter. Focus for each grape is laid at their geographical origin, taste characterstics, and history. I enjoy reading the book. / Anders

Off to London

2010-05-07T10:19:00.012+02:00

If the ash cloud from the Icelandic vulcano with the never ending name does not hinder my plans, then i will be in London already from tomorrow off. Its been more than 20 years since I last walked in the streets of London, and I have high expectations for this visit.

From other blogs, both listed in side and elsewhere, I have come to learn of many good resturants and wine retailers there. So question of the day: Where to find special wines when in London?

ps: Keith Jarrett and Charlie Haden's new duo album, Jasmine, was released this morning. Highly recommended.

Spring wines: Soalheiro, Sancerre and Marsannay

2010-05-04T17:27:00.008+02:00

With a little delay, I here rush to type a new wine post here on GrapeJuices from last Friday night, which brought new fine wine experiences under the theme of ”Spring”. All wines were served to a great dinner inspired by a series of Portuguese seafood dishes. Summing up, we tried a whole new standard for Vinho verde, a fine Sancerre, and ended the official tasting with a Pinot noir from a Northern commune of Bourgogne. These were the notes:

Soalheiro 2007 Primeiras Vinhas

The nose presents lots of lime, elderflowers and fennel. The taste bears peachy notes with something spicy going and a great dry finish with notes of liquerice. 13% vol alcohol – on the higher end for a green wine.

This green wine is quite unique. With a little googling you will soon learn, that this 100% Alvarinho wine is made up from plants with more than 30 years of age, fermented (4 months) at low temperature with natural yeasts. A certain famous wine maker’s last touch is letting 15% of the wine ferment on used oak casks. See more here. Aquired via Niepoorts projects 16€. 90P

Domanie de la Villaudiere 2007

Bouquet of citrus and pineapple and hazel. The taste is dry and somewhat ”narrow” or strigent, but possibly the wine is meant this way - kind of streamlined. The alcohol volume is 12.5% which is fine/adequate. Price unknown. 88P

Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay 2005

Dark cherries, stone fruit, pomme granate, and iron. Notes of prunes and plums and iron dominated the taste at first. The taste of the wine changed somewhat character over the course of tasting, with the acidity being more and more present. Theis vine 150kr. 87P

The oenologist from Copenhagen and the art of copying nature

2010-04-19T23:06:00.004+02:00

Recently I did an interview with the markting director on wine business from a large biotech company in Denmark. It became a rich talk on the future wine making and how science is revealing the secrets of the most prestigeous wines in the world. The interview is published here

- Anders

Conceito Bastardo 2007

2010-04-19T17:03:00.007+02:00

I brought back to Denmark a single bottle of Bastardo from Conceito from my last Lisbon trip.

From a quick research on the red grape ”Bastardo”, you will read that Bastardo was formerly widely used in Portugal. Especially in Dao and Douro. It riped in early June, hence is a very early maturing wine, and its sweet grapes were eaten during the popular festival of Sao Joao (June 25). Small amounts of Bastardo still remain today mixed into wine production, where its main characteristics are low acidity, high sugar levels and pale colour. The latter is ideal for fortified or a tawny*, but sounds little flattering for a modern table wine.

However this was not so, and while the bottle may not be Portugal’s best table wine presently, it is surely an interesting bottle which stands completely out from the crowd of table wines in Portugal. From all wines I’ve tried in Portugal, there is no brand which comes close to this taste. Although the label would lead me to pass on this wine, I recommend you to try it.

Conceito Bastardo 2007

Color: pale red (as German Spätburgunder/Pinot noir)

Nose: redcurrant, pine needles, resin, on a base of foxy flavours (barnyard flavours). Taste: quite well acidified, with something sweet towards the end. Finish is medium long. Locally bought 13€, 89P

* From R. Mayson, The wines and vinyards of Portugal

The Portugal report #3: Pedra Basta 07

2010-04-09T12:25:00.007+02:00

Posted by Anders

Last december, during my past visit to Portugal, I searched numerous Garrafeiras to get my hands on Richard Maysons wine from Alentejo, the Pedra Basta. Being sold out for christmas, I had to wait until this time around, where I came across only 2 bottles in shop in Almada.

This wine is one to watch, produced from a new and very proffessional approach in Alto Alentejo (Portalegre), at the vineyard, Quinta do Centro. The name (Pedra basta = enough stone) for their first wine refers to the westernly placed granite lands from there the wines are growing. It is made on traditional Alentejo blend (Trincadera, Aragonez, Alicante Bouschet), with the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon. And the last grape material may be essential for its difference compared to so many other Alentejo wines I have tried. It sticks out, and is one to enjoy and remember. The bouquet was very complex and with reference points, for me, from wines produced with wild ferment yeasts.

Pedra Basta 2007

Huge nose of dark berries, wet leaves, and horse leather. The taste is smooth, balanced, and with soften tannins. Locally bought at 12.5 €, 92P

- até àproxima -

The Portugal report #2: Redoma branco and Ma Partilha

2010-04-06T23:25:00.008+02:00

Here are two recommendations from Portugal. First up is Niepoorts Redoma branco. Apart from Vinho verde, Portugal is not know to produce any white wine which praise the critics beyond the countrys borders. But here is a high bench mark - for what old native douro grapes (Rabigato,Codega, Donzelinho, Viosinho, Arinto) may evolve into when grown between 400-800 meters height in Duoro schist soils, and more importantly in the hands of the right wine maker.

Second, the first 100% merlot on Grape juices, Ma Partilha from Setubal. This region is known for planting the first international grape varities such as merlot and cab. sauvignon. The big producer, Bacalhoa, produces both great blends but Ma Partilha (translates into "poorly or unevenly shared") is a mono casta and 100% merlot.

Niepoort Redoma Branco 08

Bouquet of exotic fruits, peachy, nuts (hazel/almonds) and vague hints of petroleum. The taste is finely balanced and neither”fat” or sweet, but crispy. This reminds me very much of Chablis when its good from Bourgogne. Locally bought 18€, 91P+

Ma Partilha 07

Dark red berries, young leather, tobacco leaves, green coffe beans and ”moist cellar”. The wine is tight with a peppery taste, and keeps its figure, rather than being jammy. Generally mid range Portuguese wine is produced to drink right away, but here I sense potential for development in the cellar. Locally bought 13 eur, 89P

Wine shopping in Lisbon

2010-04-06T13:32:00.006+02:00

During the last days I've been around in the streets to find some of the bottles which I have been wanting to try for some time. Here is a little collection of midrange wines from 12-19 eur. The new Douro producer, Conceito with the special Bastardo 07, produced on the old Duero grape varaity of the same name. The label is a bit psycadelic - but I do hope that wines like this will prevail on the market. I briefly tried Conceito's Barstardo in Copenhagen on a tasting, which left me positively surprised. Niepoorts Redoma 08 branco - no further introduction needed. Finally I also found hold of a bottle of Pedra basta 07 from Richard Mayson's Quinta do Centro in Portalegre, Alentejo. Last but not least Ma Partilha 07 a 100% merlot from Bachaloa. Review of the wines will appear on the blog.

Images from Easter Lunch

2010-04-05T12:02:00.005+02:00

Easter Sunday is traditional family dinner with roasted cabrito (goat), lamb and roasted tomato rice from the oven in the garden.

The wines has just set their first leaves in the sun and spring is here. Our wine menu included Murganheira superior (bubbles) and different Alentejo wines from the Borba Cooperative, from which the Touriga Nacional 2004 clearly was the best. We also opened an old family produced wine from 1975 kept in the cellar. Everyone had doomed it vineager and spoiled but to all great surprise the wine was still alive.

The Portugal report #1 Colares Chitas 2006

2010-04-03T22:23:00.021+02:00

The Colares region is presently my favorite wine region to explore when in Portugal. So the first Easter wine for the blog had to be from here. Antonio Bernardina Paulo Da Silva has been around for centuries according to the Portuguese wine books. He is worth a whole study for those who share a passion for this reknowned, yet tiny wine region where old school values are kept intact.

The Colares whites are made from Malvasia fina and Arinto grapes. The wines are form the traditional sandy soils, which characterize Colares.

Colares Chitas 2006

Color: golden with greenish shine. Little nose with citrus,butter and flowers. There may an additional note which I was not able to tease out. The taste is incredible balanced, sweet hints of elderflowers, fresh and mineral.It is a dry wine with medium long finish. Delightful with a moderate alcohol level (11%), which I liked. Bought in Jumbo 12€ (never seen Colares wines here before!), 87P.

End note: Although, the end score may not be in the very high end, there are several reasons to love this wine. The romantics for it's bottle shape and label. The connoisseur for drinking Colares which is one of the only wine regions unaffected from the Phylloxera disaster, and finally for the charm of having a label with the award given gold medals in following competitions: Panama 1915, Rio de Janeiro 1923 & Yogoslavia 1980.

A well written note on Colares Ramisco by Ryan Opaz can be read Catavino

Off to Portugal again

2010-03-31T12:36:00.006+02:00

Easter will be spent in Lisbon, and so my next's post will center on portuguese wines. Already now I have a little wish list in my head including Pedra Basta from Quinta do Centro (by Richard Mayson), "Lokal" (from F. Pato), Vinhao from Minho and other wines which I havent got around to taste before. So, I guess one of my first stops will be in the little cosy shop, Coisas do vinho and Arcos in Belem - for new bottles. Off to the airport tomorrow at 14. Happy Easter, Anders

ps: which easter wines are you having?

Finally Loire

2010-03-29T10:23:00.010+02:00

For some treason it had to take more than 2 years before our blog could present the first Loire wine on the reference list. This is definitively too bad, and more will appear. Actually, I still have a bottle of Le Haut-Lieu 2007 from Domaine Huet (Vouvray, chenin blanc) sitting on the wine rack that I am very curious to try. From Loire we had one of Bourgeois prestige wines, La Chapelle des Augustins 2004, produced by Henri Bourgeois, on 35 year old saugvignon blanc wines from calcareous and flint soils. Hereafter we moved to Oregon to try US Pinot Noir. Here we go…

La Chapelle des Augustins 2004

Bouquet of lemon peel, green asparaguses, flowers (rose?), pine needles. A great balanced wine with mineral texture, mid palate of green apples. Dry and fresh finish. Fantastic. Theis-vine.dk, 150kr (on offer) 91P

Crowley Pinot Noir Entre Nous 2007

Bouquet of rasberries and red cherries, perfume on terrestrial scents. Taste of caramelized figs, but with a adequate acid level. This is definitively a ladies wine. It is smooth, tasty and still on the sweeter side of European Pinot noir. Locally bought in Oregon US, 28$. 90P

Dengang den hvide Rioja forsvandt

2010-03-22T18:01:00.015+01:00

Indlæg skrevet til Winebook.dk

Indlægget her er en blanding af en boganmeldelse og et tankestrejf om moderne vinproduktion og markedsstyring. For nyligt læste jeg Alice Feiring’s (AF) ”The battle for wine and love or how I saved the world from Parkerization”.

Bogen er en kærlighedserklæring til verdens ”gamle” vine og en udbasuneret krigserklæring til Robert Parker (RP), som i AF’s optik er den største trussel mod de gamle vindyder, der med sin massive indflydelse hærger verdens vinmarker med en ødelæggelse som vinlusen for 140år siden. Så er det sat på plads.

Bogens præmis er, at RP’s verdensomspændende enevælde skaber en homogenisering af klodens vine, som (ifølge AF) udskygger de personlige egnsudtryk med det traditionelle, kantede, rustikke og uslebne.

Bogen indeholder desværre en hel del trivielle passager om hendes eget rodet kærlighedsliv som er temmelig uvæsentligt, og jeg antager AF blander sit eget privatliv ind i fortællingen for at gøre hendes mission endnu mere personligt (et slags greb på bogen). Jeg vil ikke bruge spalteplads på det område men i stedet rette fokus på et par nedslagspunkter i bogen som er værd at spekulere lidt over.

Pimp my wine

I de første kapitler gøres der rede for, at der i dag foregår en hel del fishy-bussiness i ønologens baglokale, som forbrugeren, desværre, får uendeligt lidt information om. Som AF påpeger kan vinfremstilling, lidt kategorisk, gøres på to måder:

Første scenarie: Denne vin er fremstillet v.h.a. ”tilpasset alkoholprocent ved reverse osmose og afrundet med mikroiltning”. ”Ingredienser: Vand, alkohol, druer, kastanjetannin, eg-ekstrakt, ege støv, genmodificeret gær, urea, enzymer, druemost, tartaric acid (red: vinsyre), bentonite (red: bundfælder) og velcorin (red: mikroorganisme antagonist) og sulfitter”.

Det andet og mere autentiske scenarie kunne læse: ”Druer tilsat minimum af sulfitter (100 ppm eller lavere)”.

Det er indlysende at enhver snak om terroir i det første scenarie forekommer abstrakt her. Da jeg læste passagerne fik det mig til at tænke på mit møde med Eben Sadie (Sydafrikansk ønolog), som ”....At lave en 100 point vin er ikke svært - det er jeg uddannet til. Det svære er at afspejle et genkendeligt terroir”.

Det leder til en tanke om der eksisterer en konflikt mellem det traditionelle og regionale produkt som genspejler området og den moderne teknik?

Skulle verdens vine udtrykke sig som vort sprog, mener AF at mange gamle stolte vinregioner er ved at tabe deres accent i moderne teknologi og hast for at møde kriteriernes opmærksomhed.

Oplyst enevælde..

Det er, måske, for de fleste oplyste vinkendere ikke nogen overraskende nyhed at videnskaben er rykket ind ønologens baglokaler for pimpe vinen op. Enten for at få den til at udtrykke sig – eller for at skære et hjørne og ramme anerkendte kritikeres smag.

I sidste tilfælde synes vinmarkedet netop at være underkastet vinkritikernes enevælder. Og det er jo besnærende at spørge sig selv, hvor ofte man selv har ladet vinkritikernes pointsystem været det styrende argument forud for et køb. Hvis man udelukkende køber efter tilbud som ”RP90..+”, ja så har AF en pointe.

I skyggen af kritikernes blade

Men vores eget danske vinmarked har naturligvis også sine flaskehalse, idet at man skal lede længe efter de autentiske vine. Disse vine synes at leve et liv i skyggesiden af pointsystemer og moderne markedsføring, og sælger kun i små mængder til en lille målgruppe. Og det er en skam!

I de sidste kapitler beskriver AF sine memorable ekspeditioner til de Europæriske vinregioner, hun stadig mener holder traditionerne i hævd og dermed har noget at byde på (men som sjældent ses på hylderne). Her kommer man bl.a. til de bedste huse i Rioja, hvor hun opsøger den hvide Rioja (produceret på bl.a. Malvasia) men også afstikkere til Champagne, Piemonte, Bourgogne og naturligvis Loire. Alle får et kapitel hver.

Til sidst tilbage til bogen. Er den værd at læse? Tja det er en feministisk ”Sideways”, og for den nysgerrige vinentusiast finder man hist og her oplysninger på spændende autentiske vine, producenter og anektdoter som ikke står i ethvert typisk vinopslag m.m. Den beretter nostalgisk om slagsiden af den modernistiske vinproduktion, der har sat de gamle dyder på porten, og med ny teknologi og ”100points-konsulenter”, får vingården til at køre rundt.

Fremtidens vinhylder

Personligt synes jeg at der er lys forude, og der i dag blæser nye vinde over markedet. Med bl.a. festivalen La Renaissance des Appellations – Return to Terroir, ført an ildsjælen Nicolas Joly, bliver de gamle dyder støvet af. Nye (biodynamiske) vingårde dukker op overalt som producerer vin på gamle druer og dyder. De synes ikke alle at opsøge vinkritikernes spalteplads med samme iver som mange moderne producenter. Desværre fylder de endnu ikke meget på de danske hylder, men overlever de, bliver der plads til den bredde og variation som AF savner så meget.

Udover det vokser nye kommunikationsformer med blogs som winebook hvor forbrugerne kan tage bladet fra munden, tale 1-1 med egne erfaringer udenom annoncepolitik eller kritikere.

Jeg fristes her til slut og spørger ud i plenum, hvad I mener om den moderne markedsstyring. Er den ensrettende eller tillader den diversitet?

- Drud

Riesling ’07 and a recommendation for ‘great buy’

2010-03-21T11:56:00.008+01:00

I was given the task to choose german riesling from a specific distributor in CPH, and due to the constraints of sortiment, it left me with only one option within the budget frame. Since German producers have declared 2007 for a super year, almost unlike any other years. We tried a Mosel wine, and our verdict of this wine is that it is a genuinely pleasant glass of wine. In particular for it’s purpose - a reception.

And now to something completely different. I failed to buy Renato Ratti Barolo 05 last year at a favourable price. Ever since the price has gone up, at intervals of 3 months. Last weekend, their Langhe Nebbiolo from 07 was on sale, and although not a Barolo, I did not want to repeat the mistake.

The best purpose of selecting wines is to find wine gems, either undiscovered, underrated, a simply good value for money. And here is one. Ratti’s Langhe for 83kr.

Schloss Marienlay 2007

Clear with wheat yellow colour tones. Bouquet of mango, passionfruit and acacia-flower. The taste is well balanced; at first fresh, midpalate somewhat sweet, and again, a fresh finish. 89P Vinoble 99kr

Renato Ratti Langhe 2007

Bouquet of raspberries, rose, viol and herbs. Taste of soft tannins. The bottle reminds me of why i like Piemonte wines, for their cool style, perfect acidity, yet powerful body. 91-92P, Phillipsonwine 10+2 (83kr/bottle), Great buy

Spring is here - time for fresh wines

2010-03-16T15:59:00.008+01:00

It seems almost as spring arrived to CPH today, and only a few patches of old snow still lie resitantly scattered in the garden. Up on the balcony, it got 25 degrees, t-shirt climate and time for a fresh wine to go with blue shells (starter) and an grilled sea bass.

Quinta do Crasto 08 Branco

A Douro white on inox. Grapes are gouveio, Roupeiro, Cercial and Rabigato. All from wines 20 years+.

Clear with a olive green tone. Fresh bouquet of citric fruits and green apples. Mineralistic with a good acidity which tickles the toungue, mid palate of green apples followed by a dry fisnih. Uncomplicated, Portugisisk vinhandel 89dkk, 88P

Blind tasting at Eggerts

2010-03-06T10:51:00.011+01:00

Friday night hosted another reunion on the concept "bring your own bottle". Following bottles were tasted and evaluated; Pazo Señorans 2008, Moss Wood Pinot Noir 2004, Chateau Marquis D’alesme 1982 and Cornas Tardieu Laurent 2006. As prologue and epilogue a keller Riesling and a bottle of Chateau de Malle 2002 Sauternes was enjoyed.

Pazo Señorans 2008

Galician wine on the noble green wine grape, Albariño. Clear colored with olive glaze on the egdes. Clean bouquet of exotic fruits and flowers. The wine is not all light, but has some density. The asfter taste is dry and lasting. Kjær & Sommerfeldt, 179dkk, 90+P

Moss Wood Pinot Noir 2004

Red transperant color. Huge bouquet of raspberries, pibe tobacco, cut grass, earthy tones, marcipan and vanilla. Acid level is very balanced and the wine appears quite light(the huge bouquet considered). Privately aquired (260dk-400dkk), 90P

Chateau Marquis D’alesme 1982

A wine guessed in 2 seconds, old bordeaux from Medoc from the famous vintage 1982. Orange egdes and uncleared wine. Almost like blood in glass. Huge bouquet of heavy leather, salt, gorgonzola, earthy. A heavy tannin bite dominate the finish with taste of stone fruits/pencil. A quite masculin wine. Vinoble, 238dkk, 90+P

Cornas Tardieu Laurent 2006

Deep red color, with purple egdes. The bouquet is focused and very dominated by white grinded pepper and strawberries. Finish with hints of vanilla. Not the most assesible wine, but very interesting. The wine express the schist-terroir with a clean minerality. Theis-vine, 299dkk, 91P

Finally the evening was Chateau de Malle 2002. Delightful wine with notes of toasted bread with butter and raisins.

The Grape Juices Blog turned 2 years

2010-02-23T10:47:00.008+01:00

Although a little late, I just came to notice that Grapejuices blog has existed for 2 years(and a week). So thanks for the good inputs and comments along the way.

The good news is that the third year will be even more capturing with new wines, impressions, places and opinions. / Grapejuices

Posted by Drud

Smooth or barnyard...What are you in to?

2010-02-21T10:42:00.013+01:00

This weekend offered a great wine tasting, including a French traditionlist to explore, a rarity from Portugal to collect, and fruitful discussions on wine rating. The latter issue on rating will be dealt with in a separate post to follow soon, but main aim is to create a new scale, which embrace both the subjective with the objective in wine rating. The scale is proposed to combine a linear and a catagoric scale.

As any great dinner with wine tasting, the set was started out with a bottle of champagne. Here with a fresh nose of rye bread and a good palate.

Geyerhoff Kirschensteig 2008

Notes: Deep amber yellow color with velcoming nose of exotic fruits, elderflowers, and hints of botrytis. The taste evolves elegantly from being sweet, then dry and ultimately slight acidic, which prolong the finish. Although the wine only contains 12.5%, the mouthfeel is sensed as a somewhat more full bodied white.

Domaine de Escaravailles 2006

This wine is an attempt to produce ”New world” taste of Pinot-Noir or Cote rotie based on old world methods. The big question here is, whether this french producer should better stick to their regional traditions or seek out this kind of new avenues?

Notes: Mature cherries and marcipan, hints of raspberries. The wine appears medium bodied, some may say mineralistic style. However, the alcohol volume is pushed to a maximum wth 15%.

Domaine Leon Barral Jardis 2002

Conforme wine drinkers and weak souls keep out! A bottle of Domaine Leon Barral is simply a journey back at the roots of wine making. Placed in Langue doc, the grape material here is grenache, mouvedre, carignan and syrah. It is 100% natural wine; non filtered, no additives, supposedly no micro agents or sulphites. Hence bottles of Leon Barral Jardis have to stored under the right circumstances to avoid effects from cork or fluctuations in the quality.

The danish retailer told anecdotally, that buying directly from Barral is only possible, if visitors bring their own cooling facilities. Anything else is considered a crime at the Chateau.

Notes: Clear brettanomyces style with a complex nose of curry, commin, young leather, menthol, green elements, on a solid base of barn yard. A panelist said: ”it is like opening a rabbit”, but meant positively (if possible?:)). The wine is a bit cloudy and not cleared. This wine, is for me, unforgettable, and it did indeed appeal to most of the panel members. Even some of the women liked it too!

Niepoort Projectos Colheita Tardia 2003

We ended the tasting with a little rarity from Northern Portugal. We have had several wines from Dirk Niepoorts hands at Grapejuices before, but this late harvest (Pt: Colheita tardia) is from the ”Projectos series”, a series of experimental wines from the Douro and Tras os Montes regions. The wines are primarily available here.

So far only some hundreds of this 500ml bottle late harvest has been produced, and seemingly only from the 2003 vintage. It is definitively not typical Portuguese style, but from my side, it is a little catastrophe, if Niepoort does not add this wine in their official repertoire. It does not read from the label which grapes that are used in this little gem, but some tasting notes are simliar to late harvested Riesling (petroleum).

Notes: Nose of petroleum and mango. Great balance of sweetness with honey finish. Advice: collect if possible!

Tasted by Laurent, MadsE, and Drud. Posted by Drud

Riecine, a classic

2010-02-09T15:16:00.007+01:00

Wines based on the Sangiovese grape can range from very light and subtle, to massive fruit-bombs with loads of spice and earthy elements. On a previous occasion we tried out the Riecine Chianti Classico Riserva, which, to me, was a revelation in just how elegant and seductive these Sangiovese wines can be. This time I tasted the “little sister” of the Riserva, the:

Riecine Chianti Classico 2006.

Again the wine is made purely from Sangiovese and again the wine aims for seduction by elegance and finesse, rather than over-powering by massive fruit and wood. In the glass the wine shows up a clear deep red, in fact, as I remember it, it seemed a bit darker that the Riserva. The nose revealed ripe cherries, blackberries and dark chocolate, but despite of the rather high alcohol content (14%) it is in a cool and almost reserved way. The same elements were noticeable in the taste and again in a very cool and elegant fashion. Together with some spices and smooth tannins the wine is kept in a fine balance and is joy to drink in big slurps and calls for a good slice of homemade pizza. On the second day the wine was a bit more open but still very firm and well structured in the mouth. From the dealer, the word is that this wine would easily do another 6-7 years on the shelf and see no problems in that either.

Imported by Viniportugal (129 DKR).

89P

/Mads

Wild ferment and German pinot

2010-02-07T12:29:00.012+01:00

Saturday night offered two good wines. A Chilean white and German red. Errazuriz have already established themselves as one of Chiles most ambitious producers. A series of their mid-range price tagged products (btw 12-20€) are, to my taste, quite good. The wild ferment is special as it is produced using natural yeasts which increase the complexity of the flavours in the wine. We had the wine to a nice starter of cold smoked salmon sashimi.

Thereafter we tried a Spätbugunder from Nahe. The wine maker, Tim Frolich has recently established himself among the best producers in Nahe. His Spätburgunder are particularly good due to the effort in selecting the right barriques. The wine was accompanied to roasted chicken in bacon with garniture.

Errazuriz Chardonnay 2007 Wild Ferment

Color bright yellow with olive green glaze. Bouquet of exotic fruits, mango, hazel, and butter.

Taste is balanced with a bitter sweet passion fruit note followed by an enjoyable sweet aftertaste of nuts/almonds. Mad & vin, 139kr 91P

Schäfer-Frolich Spätburgunder 2005

Overtone of raspberries, earth, liquorice, flowers (viols and rose), on a base of red cherries. The taste is very balanced with a delightful dry aftertaste. It’s a straight and very aromatic Spätburgunder; girlfriends loved it too. Atomwine 99kr/bottle (norm price 139kr). 91P

Tasted by Laurent & Anders Drud

Around the world

2010-01-25T12:01:00.012+01:00

Last Saturday three wines were tested blind. This time around we came quite around in the world, with wines from California, Spain and South Africa. All were likeable but the scores did not enter the unforgettable area.

Seghesio Zinfandel 2006

Bouquet of black berries, cigarbox wood, a bit perfume, pine and musk. The taste is intially quite sweet (cinnamon) turning dry. The wine has impressively 15.4% alcohol. Upon drinking American, we discussed the Europan taste vs American. We tend to like our wines more dry. Gunnar Madsens vinhandel 169kr, 88P

Petales del Bierzo 2007

Concentrated bouquet of black berries/boisen berries, hint of citrus, wet leaves, and a characterstic clear hint of dill. Drinkfriendly with marked but soft tannins. This wine was new to all of us, but left us positively surprised. It is predominately made on an indigenous grape from Spain, Mencía, which Robert Parker has termed "Pinot Noir on steroids".

The region, Bierzo is also quite underrepresented and unknown, at least on the Danish wine market. Nevertheless, the bottle was an interesting and original play for the evening. 130kr, H.J Hansen 89P

Sequillo 2003

Powerfull nose with notes of smoke, dark berries, and peat (the wiskey note). Upon tasting, notes of ink are also sensed. This wine was bought to try the "economy class" of the reknowned South African wine maker Eben Sadie. However, while his Columulla is impressive and rememorable (fruitful, mineral), the cheaper Sequillo disappears in shadows of the new worlds many power wines - to our taste. E'sprit du vin, 170kr, 87P

Tasted by: Peter, Jakob & Drud

A Colares minute

2010-01-09T14:26:00.004+01:00

Road trip into Colares wine region in December. Found lovely ramisco and malvasia wines to appear on the site.

2010 starts with a Portuguese red

2010-01-02T21:01:00.009+01:00

posted by drud

2010 starts with a Portuguese native grape, baga from Beiras. The first wine is from the hands of the reknowned Portuguese enologist Luis Pato, aka "Mr Baga" (due to his merits with this hard little thick shelled red grape) and vinhas velhas 2005 is well done. The wine is made on 100% baga from chalk rich soils and has a great storage potential.

Vinhas velhas 2005

Intense bouquet with notes of red fruits. Distinct notes of cherries and raspberries along with spicy herbal notes (oregano, tobacco leaves). The spicy bouquet reminds me of modern Douro wines. It has a strong

structure from its high level acidity-backbone which reinforce the fuityness of the wine. The tannins are rich, yet softened and provide the wine with a dry and long aftertaste. Locally bought 17Eur, 90P

Happy new year for 2010

2009-12-30T13:46:00.014+01:00

posted by drud
Happy New Year for 2010 and QOTD: Which wine are you planning to drink during the last hours of 2009 and which wine shall be the first for 2010?

I managed to get hold of one of the 2500 bottles from the new Cartuxa espumante series which was released for the first time this year. The wine is made on Arinto grown in Alentejo. Locally bought 27€.

Looking for Ramisco: Colares visited

2009-12-29T11:54:00.011+01:00

posted by drud
Arenae Ramisco 2004

Color medium transparent with copper egdes. Huge bouquet of red cherries, dark chocolate, stone fruit, moist cellar and red meat. The taste is well structured, with notes of dark cherries and ink followed by a long finish where the tannins clear of the teeth. The well defined acidity of this wine makes me think of the characteristics of Nebbiolo. Wonderful. Locally bought at 9 €, 92P

Seafood and vinho verde

2009-12-27T21:17:00.008+01:00

posted by drud

There is a rare match between Portuguese seafood and their Vinho verde (green wine). Vinho verde is produced in Minho, Portugal's most northern wine region, where a number of less-known white grapes thrive. Of these, the most known include loureiro, trajadura, arinto and alvarinho (albariño in spain). Green wines are fresh, often with low alcohol (10-12%) and are excellent companions to seafood.

It took, therefore, only a brief look at the wine menu to pair up a delightful seafood lunch at the coastline of Lisbon (Caparica).

Alvarinho Deu la Deu 2008 is from the subregion Monção and entirely produced on alvarinho.

Color transparent with an olive-green tone and natural-occurring bubbles. Nose of green apples and hints of lime. The taste is simple and dry with fresh acidity which makes up a long apple finish. 87P

Christmas wine #4 Pera-Manca Branco 07

2009-12-25T18:47:00.005+01:00

posted by drud

My christmas wine for the traditional Bacalhau dish in Portugal had to be Pêra-Manca this year. I am a fan of the wines of Fundação Almeida, but had yet to try one of their top wines, the Pêra-Manca. The white is made from the Alentejo grapes Arinto and Antão-Vaz picked from granite soils. It's aged for 10 to 12 months in steel vats and french oak. Hereafter, it rests for 6 months more in the bottle.

Pêra-Manca 07

Nose of honey, flowers, and distinct tone of green almonds/hazel.

Nicely balanced with an apple/pear thing going on, ending with a finish of hazel. One would have guessed Chardonnay. Locally bought at 25 €, 91P

Christmas wine #3 Arenae Ramisco 2002

2009-12-23T15:30:00.007+01:00

posted by drud
Yesterday's best (wine) experience was clearly the Aranae 2002 Ramisco. I had no idea that this wine also was made to drink this young. This bottle only come 50Cl and with an annualy production of 6000 bottles. I ordered the bottle mainly to satisfy my curiosity on ramisco, while preparing a mind talk on how this bottle perhaps should had been stored 40 more years before opening. After a slight sip, all prepared defense lines vanished. Aranae appears to made for drinking now, and I do sincerely recommend this wine. Notes to come..

Lisbon is full of sneaky corners, authentic cantinas, and one can not help surrending to such an atmosphere. The images posted are from Fabrica Lisboa, in Alcantara, where we had our last stop.

Christmas wine #2 Alentejo red

2009-12-22T10:35:00.007+01:00

posted by drud

Yesterday I had a new Portuguese wine, in what could be called ”seek and try out” for good christmas wine.

First up Aveleda’s red ”Charamba” from Douro, but the taste of this wine was simply not of my liking, ”Sharp, moulded, and alcoholic”.

Instead we turned to Alentejo to try Mouras de Arraiolos 2007, grande escolha.

I have often visited the lovely little village of Arriolos in Alentejo, because it hold one of Portugals gastronomic gems, the resturant ”moagem”. However, I had never tried this wine from same village. Mouras de Arraiolos is produced on, Cabernet sauvignon, Syrah and Alicante bouschet, aged for 12 months on new french oak.

Nose with hints of dark berries, spices, peat/tar, vanilia, cut grass and mint. Beautiful structure, well balanced and a good tannin bite to leave the mouth dry. Great food wine, 12€, locally bought. 90P

First christmas wine #1 Niepoorts Pinot Noir

2009-12-21T10:07:00.009+01:00

posted by drud

First Chrismas wine was Niepoorts PN project which i had been wanting to taste for long, mainly driven by the big question - does it taste like burgundy?

The wine is medium dark (darker than french PN), and has a nose of dark red berries, spices and cigarbox wood. It has an elegant light structure, which first appears a bit creamy, then turning into a sweet smoky aftertaste. As for the big question (Burgundy or not) the answer is no. The nuances were few and we are in the new world PN style. However, to me, there was a Portuguese (spicy/herbs) signature in it, which i have tasted in many other Douro wines. I enjoyed the lightness, the aftertaste and the experiment. 92P

Long journey and long silence

2009-12-20T11:18:00.006+01:00

posted by drud

After a long silence here on the blog due to work in South america, I am back to Lisbon to celebrate christmas and try new portuguese wines. Surprises and disappointments will posted soon

First buy is Niepoort PN project (35 eur locally bought) which I have been wanting to try for long. PN is nearly not grown anywhere in Portugal, and it will be intresting to to test whether Niepoorts PN from Douro contain any bourgogne characteristics...

Off to South America

2009-11-18T19:10:00.009+01:00

Posted by Drud

Just came in the door from lovely Berlin where I spend the past two days in another area Prenzlauer Berg: contrary to my first days there, this area has lots of good resturants and wine shops in the streets. The journey from CPH to Berlin is only 35-50 min, but what a magnificent change one can experience here. I have to go back soon.

This friday I leave for South America on a film production where little internet is expected. I'll be back in December with new notes for Christmas wines. Till then.

In Berlin

2009-11-15T09:51:00.006+01:00

Posted by Drud

After a few funny try-outs with the lower end of german wines, which is not advisable, I turned to France. So yesterday night wine in Fridrichheim here in Berlin was from Rhone made on 50% syrah and 50% grenache. No regrets.

Domaine de Grangeneuve Terre d'espices 2006

Notes of coffe, horse-saddle, wet gras, and liqurice. Very fine mineral structure with a great after taste of pepper on the backend. 90P, 15€ locally bought.

....Still seaching for the fine Spätburgunder.

Portuguese beauty with age

2009-11-12T18:37:00.021+01:00

Posted by Drud

For the past time there has not been anything worth writing about, in terms of great, surprising wines or great-buys, which i've come across. Hence a bit of silence..

However, if one stuck out, it would be an elderly Portuguese which showed unussual livity, and thus deserves a note. Since I started collecting Portuguese wines in 2004/5, I've noticed that not all of them age with grace, in the same way as Bordeaux's, wines from Burgundy or Piemonte. After a few slips with older Portuguese table wines, I decided to uncork a Reguengos 2001 Garrafeira dos Socios from the Carmin Cooperative. I got it back in 2005 but it no longer retails in this vintage (now the 2002). Before opening, I feared the dissappointment but quite contrary it showed a huge strong livety! Great spicy complex nose, high coherent vertical structure and long finish. No flatness at all. We enjoyed it fully, although admittedly in between sips, I got the "could have kept it even longer" thoughts..

A fine Alentejo table wine with great liveliness - a shame it was the last bottle in the cellar..

...Off to Berlin tomorrow for Spätburgunder and other surprises.

How to open a bottle of wine without a corkscrew

2009-11-07T13:17:00.001+01:00

This is a rather new technique for most people, i am sure. Nevertheless watch and see the result..

Wunderbar Spätburgunder

2009-10-31T16:35:00.013+01:00

Akkompagneret af tre gode retter komponeret af Mads E, kom vi et nyt overraskende program igennem. Highlights for aftenen var Pinot fra Tyskland og en chianti. Aften bød desuden på premiere på champagne og en pinot fra Loire på Grape juices.

Larmandier-Bernier

Terre de Vertus premiere cru

Næse af stenfrugt og dej. Smagen rummer flere lag, blomstret først, tør, fyldig med eftersmag af surdej/rugbrød i næsen. Købt i Brussels (31€), handles også ved Esprit du vin (340dkk).

Meursault 2008

a savigny-les-beaune (cote d’or)

Lækker og tiltalende bouquet af anis, lakrids, og æble. Medium krop, og knaphed i syren. Hvor bouquet’en vakte stor spænding er smagen og eftersmagen ikke den helt store oplevelse. Vinen er (måske) derfor allerede klar til drikke nu. Oxholm vine 230dkk. 89-90P

Domaine Pelle 2007

Les bornes menetou-salon

Næse af hindbær, let note af stald, vanilie og eg. På trods af en relativ lav alkohol procent (12.5%) var der også strejf af alkohol i næsen. Smagen er blød, afrundet, ja næsten designet og tilpasset. Drikkeklar nu. Man savner lidt vildskab. 88P

Baden Huber 2005

Bernhard huber Spätburgunder

Fantastisk næse af jordbær, peber, jord, og blåskimmel ost. Smagen er let, mineralsk, en flot syre giver vinen en lang og herlig eftersmag. Denne vin skaber konvertitter blandt Pinot noir skeptikere. Vinhuset Luffe’s gård, Stege. 92P

Riecine 2004

Chianti classico

Næse af rød frugt, sure kirsebær, stenfrugt, blyant. Vinen har en hammerstærk struktur båret af tannin ryggrad sjældent set lige. Vinen er lavet på 100% sangiovese og viser høj klasse. Den kan formentligt overleve de næste mange generation i kælderen. Viniportugal 280dkk. 91P

Ekstra numre

Vin Jeaune 2002

Caveau Des Byards, Cotes de Jura

Usædvanelig rustik hvidvin med kant i kaptejn Haddock flaske. Næse af stålværksted ogoxideret tawny/sherry. Et finurligt og autentisk indspil fra en lille fransk lomme ved Jura bjergene.

Quinta do Crasto 2005

Næse af skibstjære og tobak. Smag fyldig, rund, og der er "højt til loftet" med god syre. Rated "no 4 best wine" af wine spectator i 2008. Portugisisk vinkælder 185dkk

Vine fra den gamle verden og et mosefund fra Napa

2009-10-24T16:22:00.019+02:00

postet by drud

Fredag lykkedes det at samle vin og jazz-entusiasterne igen, og med frit tema kom vi godt rundt på verdens vin terrasser. Vi lagde ud med en ny vin fra den store portugisiske eksperimenteur Dirk Niepoort, som er undervejs med en ny serie vine, hvor man kan finde pinot noir, riesling, og ædel riesling. Da druerne jo ikke er naturlige for Duero regionen må kan de nye vine kun klassificeres som ”Vinho Regional Duriense”. Der er kun produceret 1400 flasker af denne vin som er dyrket på 20år gamle stokke i ca 800 meters højde.

Riesling 2006 Niepoort Projects

Farve hvedegul med næse af citrus, gul kornblomst og engelsk lakrids. Smagen er blød, mellem krop, rank, og med en lækker 30sek eftersmag af engelsk lakrids. Vinen gjorde et godt indtryk, og blev ved med at åbne sig under smagningen, og vi siger på gensyn. Købt i Portugal (15€).87P, 89P, 89P

Herefter fulgte en Bordeaux fra venstre bred. Der blev overraskende nok gættet i øst-vest på denne vin, førend det stod klart at her var der tale om en klassisk bordeaux fra Saint Emilion.

Chateau Haut-Corbin 2003

En lidt snæver bouquet af blyant, grøn peber, mørk chokolade og tobak. Vinen er lidt solet, men er velstruktureret og afbalanceret. Den savner måske lidt personlighed. Skal drikkes nu. Erik Sørensen 190kr. 86P, 88P, 88P

Nu til aftenens bedste oplevelse, fra Spanien. San Roman er fra regionen Toro og Tempranillo druens flotte taninbid med smag af vanilje og peber, fik os hurtigt på sporet af en Ribera del Duero….eller deromkring. San Roman er netop kåret som #36 i Wine Spectators 100 bedste vine. Vinen var dekanteret i over 5 timer inden vi smagte på den.

San Román 2004

Vinen er næsten blæksort med en bouquet af mørke bær, træ, vanilie og tobak. Smagen giver først toner af jordbær, modne hyldebær hvorefter man får eftersmag i mund og næse af mint. Vinen er købt i Theis vine for 180kr (tilbud) og til den pris er det et godt køb. 92P, 92P, 93P

Herefter fulgte en skuffelse for undertegnet. Der er få ældre vin-ikoner på Portugisiske Alentejo-slette, og Mouchao er et af dem. Vinen er særdeles kendt og elsket i Portugal og man betaler der også derefter.

Mouchâo 2003

Dyb rød vin med bouquet af ung frugt, mørke kirsebær, tobak og antydning af appelsin. Smagen er meget rund og fyldig og giver referencer mod Merlot. Skal drikkes nu, men vinen savner personlig taget i betragtning af dens omdømme. Vinen er købt i Portugal for 31€. 88P

Når Ryggraden flås ud af en Cabernet

Sidst blev det udgravet et mosefund fra reolen. Jeg havde lovet mig selv at begynde en oprydning på af vinreolen efter nogle skuffende oplevelser af ældre vin som skulle ligge til en-eller-anden-gang ude i fremtiden. Derfor sluttede aften med noget af en kuriositet Vigil Vineyards fra Napa. Vinen er lavet på 100% Cabernet Franc, og efter mange år i kælderen beskrives den bedst som ”After-Eight” på flaske. Vinen indeholdte mere suspenderet bundfald end en skovmose man lige havde trampet igennem. Vi filtrede vinen 2 gange igennem med en bomuld-si, hvorefter sien blev behjælpeligt blækfarvet og kunne smides direkte ud. Vinen var nærmest umulig at gætte blindt, men et de første indtryk den forlod affødte smagskommentaren "som at flå ryggraden ud af en cabernet"

Vigil 1997

Sherry farve med lange kobber kanter. Distinkt bouquet af kogechokolade, solbær, vanilie, "jenka tygummi", mint og krisebær.

I smagen fulgte den kirschagtige tone med, med en sødme af solbær/brombær. Eftersmag af fyretræ og mint. Sat på formel med kogechokoladen har man opskriften på After Eight! Der var naturligvis ikke skyggen af taniner. Sidste vin var et eksperiment og der blev ikke givet point. World of Wine, pris?

A great buy: part 2

2009-10-18T19:13:00.006+02:00

The only good thing about the Danish soccer game against Hungary was the wine. Bought at an offer of 80dkk/bottle, we purchased a box of Torrione Petrolo 2006. We have been around this wine before on Grapejuices (link), and the 2004 vintage from Torrione made number 63 in Wine Spectators best 100 (in 2006). The wine is only classified IGT, and one suspects a "little visit" by cabernet sauvignon perhaps?

Torrione Petrolo 2006

Vibrant red color, with a great bouquet of red berries, wet rotten grass, truffels and visit to the horse stable. Upon tasting the wine is in perfect balanced with no agressive tannins and most enjoyable, an extraordinare after taste of walnuts. 90P

In conclusion a great buy and a damn shame I only have one bottle left.

- drud

Cleaning up and finding a 'comeback kid' in the cellar

2009-10-12T20:43:00.008+02:00

When the family visits from Lisbon, we get a chance to clean up some ’old timers’ in the cellar. Tonight we found a Garrafeira Reserva 2001, which we personally picked up in Borba, deep within the Portuguese wine region of Alentejo. The cork left the bottle swiftly, perhaps a bit too swiftly to my liking, and my alertness was further raised by a nose of alcohol, pencil, and stone fruity. We decanted the wine in a carafe but deemed the wine as ”gone-over” and ’assymetric’. After dinner we gave the wine a last chance poured the glasses.

Garrafeira 2001, Adega coop de Borba

Nose: Dark cherries, plums, english liqurice, oak, (still some base of balsamico)

The sourness had left and was replaced by a mature (older) wine with medium body and soft tannins. The wine had raised itself from a flat and sour experience to a balanced and rather proud wine. The wine had however lost some of it youth and hence a score of 86P

Have you ever tried this before?

World Cup and the taste of South Africa

2009-10-11T20:00:00.008+02:00

posted by drud
Yesterday Denmark qualified for the world cup in South Africa 2010. Perhaps this event will lead us to explore the vareties of South African wines, which to me is rather unknown..

south Africa has long tradition for wine growing, and I've heard of good producers which make use of the old european blends such as cab. sauvignon and merlot or grenache and syrah.

Apart from Eben Sadie's wonderful 'Columella', which we tried to a biodynamic wine tasting in Copenhagen, I have not tried many South African wines which has left me with an impression of the something absolutely unique...

So question of the day: which South Africa wine thrills you the most?

Just for the record

2009-10-10T11:15:00.003+02:00

Aftenens vin var fra Terras do Sado der ligger lige syd for Lissabon. Her druen Castelão meget udbredt der også kendt under navnet ’Periquita’, der senere har givet navn til en serie vine.

Pegões Reserva 2002

Farve: Mellemrød med kobberkanter.

BQ kraftig men simpel. Toner af blyant, mørke bær, blæk, peber og alkohol

Smag: Først flad, oxideret efterfulgt af mellemsmag af peber. Der er stadig lidt bid i syren som kommer sidst.

Etiketten siger: kan gemmes optil 10år. Virkeligheden er en anden, og vinen var allerede flyttet på allerdomshjem. 82P

-drud

Den nye verden i den gamle

2009-10-08T15:53:00.009+02:00

Siden tirsdag har køleskabet gemt på en af Portugals gode vine. Quinta do Vale Meão kom for alvor på verdens kortet da de i 2004 (som er et fremragende år Portugal) kom Wine Spectators liste med deres 1 vin med hele 97 Point.

Meandro er 2 vinen og referer til Duero-flodens slygende spor i landskabet. Vinen er (næsten) lavet på Portugals ”big five” druer: Touriga Nacional (40%), Tinta Roriz (tempranillo) 30%, Tinta Franca (5%), Tinta Cão og De Sousa (5%). Sidstnævte (De Sousa) er knap så udbredt, men bruges til at lave Vinhão, en Vinho verde på en rød drue.

Quinta Vale Meão Meandro 2007

Farve: Mørk rubinrød, gardiner purpurøde med blå kant.

Bouquet: Først tone af røde kirsebær, efterfulgt af modne kirsebær, solbær, krydderier, vanilie, nødder, våd skovbund, blomstret.

Smag: fin struktur, lakris m eftersmag af cassis, blåbær og bløde tanniner i gummerne.

Portugals nye generation af vine er generelt er historien om mødet mellem den nye og den gamle vinverden. Kort fortalt - voldsom bouquet pakket ind i en fin struktur (ingen bombe alarm!).

90/91P

posted by drud

Poderina Rosso di Montalcino

2009-10-03T17:15:00.011+02:00

posted by: drud
Sidste år havde vi fornøjelsen af prøve La Poderina's brunello fra den sagnomspundne årgang 1997. Det var en fantastisk oplevelse, og lige siden har jeg været nysgerrig for at prøve deres Rosso. La Poderina stammer fra Montalcino, syd for Firenze. Mens deres Brunello ligger på fad i 3 år, er Rosso'en hældt over på flaske efter 1 år.

La Poderina Rosso Di Montalcino 06

Kraftfuld ren bouquet af røde frugter (jordbær/hindbær), også grønne toner. Renheden i næse og smag virker klassisk (italiensk) og giver en vinen en rank "kold" struktur. Smagen er domineret af en kraftfuld frugtsyre, men kroppen følger dog godt med. Til vores store overraskelse er der ikke tale om et markant tanninbid eksempelvis.

Fremfor de mange nuancer vi fandt i den modne brunello, må denne Rosso 06 nok mest beskrives som flot, linær, raceren Sangiovese. Der er gemmepotentiale i vinen, og det er et behageligt glas vin, men uden stor personlighed.

88P, Erik Sørensen vin 149dkk

Mouton Rothschild La Turque Montrachet Sassicaia..

2009-09-27T13:30:00.011+02:00

..just to mention a few. Last friday we tried them all at Børsen, in the central part of CPH. An absolute terrific event. This post make no justice for all the wonderful wines we tested. However, there were also some cheap and affordable wines which gave showed great potential.

Condando de Haza 2005

Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero at its most drink-friendly expression. Vanilla, creamy, soft tannins with a great structure. Even to drink right now. Price set at 99dkk/bottle during the event.

Amayna 2008

A Sauvignon blanc from Chile with very rich nose of edler flowers, honey, salty, and wellbalanced, medium creamy taste. Absolutely all 80dkk/bottle worth for every sip.

Even tough it may sound impossible to outshine the whelm of superior wines from Bordeaux and Super tuscans, one did it. Montrachet! Never in my life has white wine been so delicate, rich, fresh, balanced. We tried the Puligny-Montrachet 2002 1. Cru Clos Mouchere Domaine Boillot once, moved on, came back and tried twice and lastly left the arrangement with the taste of the faboulus wine in our minds.

German Riesling,again!!

2009-09-23T14:37:00.004+02:00

Some time ago we tasted a few different German Rieslings which left us (or at least me) wondering whether German Riesling is just not for us. The only way to find out is to try out more of the German stuff. This time I chose the basic Riesling from one of the most renowned producers who is highly praised for his intense and well-structured wines.

Keller Riesling Trocken 2008

The wine was opened and poured. In the nose it seems a little reluctant to reveal its secrets, yet a few swirls uncovers notes of grapefruit, white flowers and something in the line of wet rocks. In the mouth you instantly feel the acidity. Very stringent with lots of minerals yet to me it lacks a bit of body to cope with the acidity. The wine is highly extracted (maybe a bit too much for me), which gives you a sort of dry sensation in the mouth. The word is that this only gets even more intense in his other wines. The wine was tasted again on day 2 and 4 without much happening. A little more open in the nose but still young and very fresh.

The overall verdict of this wine is that you get an amazing wine for just 69 DKR at atomwine. Yet, due to the acidity and high extract, this wine is actually not that easy to drink in large quantities. I find that one glass of this is enough and would then like to move on to something else. But what a glass.

89P

/Mads

Italian wines on a saturday night

2009-09-20T12:20:00.010+02:00

By chance we had three Italian wines on a last satudays blind tasting. It was a free call - but somehow we managed to chose three bottles from Italys more nortern parts.

We started of in Veneto with secondary wine of the big amarone. The Ripasso is ever so often shaded by Amarone, but these wines are not to neglect for two reasons. Firstly, as you may enjoy a lighter and more mineral wine contrary to the hefty amarone, or secondly because you find you self drinking a fantastic wine, similar to amarone but for a much cheaper price.

Montezovo Ripasso Valpolicaella 2005

Nose: hints of strawberris came through first. pebber and vanilia.

Upon tasting the red berries are quickly replaced by a dry (sherry like) and bitter dark chocolate. 89P, Erik Sørensen vin 149 dkk

Next wine up was perhaps tonights best experience, and also most hard to nail. A bordeaux wine from Italy. This wine is made on Cabernet sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

Villa Fidelia rosso 2003

Bouquet of dark red berries, oak (barrique), coffe and dark chocolate.

The taste is rich, copulent but overall in well balance with the level acidity. There is a fine harmony between its volume, structure and sweetness. 90P, Theis vine 200dkk

We ended the evening with one of the most known Vino Nobile from Montepuliciano, the Asinone.The wine was opened and decanted 5 hr before tasting.

Poliziano Asinone 2005

Bouquet of red berries, grass, oak and leather and slight hints of animalistic tones. Its a well structured wine, dry, and with a medium hard tannins. This wine may easily evolve more over the following years. 89P, Oxholm vine 279dkk

A red (and white) weekend

2009-09-07T11:14:00.007+02:00

Apparently players in red stand a better chance of winning in football than other colours. Due to the importance of the football match against Portugal last Saturday, I chose to open a red bottle.

La Colombina rosso di Montalcino 2006 DOC

In many respects a vineyards rosso is a good indicator of the ditto Brunello. In this case the Sangiovese vines (aka Brunello) are simply not old enough to produce the more sophisticated brunello and thus we end up with this rosso. When I first tasted this wine the wood was very dominant, but there were promises of a well developing fruit if you were prepared to wait for it. Now 1½ years later it is time to check the status of this wine.

On the first day it poured out light clear and red. It was a little closed both in the nose and mouth with notes of fresh cherries and some spice. It finishes a bit short but is very drinkable. To me, this wine gives a good impression of how elegant wines made on sangiovese can be. In fact this wine reminded me more of Chianti than Brunello, but this is off course dependent of which specific wines you compare it to. It was accompanying ducks leg with a mix of potatoes, onions, carrots, parsley roots and butternut squash baked in the oven. As you might have guessed the wine could not quite match this pairing. I am, however, convinced that this wine will suit a lot of lighter dishes such as pasta, chicken and veal.

On the second day it was more open but it seems as if it is not quite ready to reveal its full potential so the remaining bottles will have to wait a little longer (not too long though).

88 P

/Mads E

Blaufrankisch - an indian summerwine

2009-08-31T08:20:00.013+02:00

Posted by Drud

September is here and we now tend to leave summers light wines and enjoy the more full bodied ones. There are, however, wines that still target the seasons small changes delightfully. The other day I found a bottle of Blaufrankisch from Burgenland. I am quite a fan of these "colder" reds, as they have a rich and heavy bouquet yet surprising crispy (and lighter) body with good fruit. A recipe for a perfect Indian summer wine.

After 30 min open, a great bouquet grew out of the bottle with dark cherries, chalk, earth, salt licorice, and oak. The wine is mineral with a fresh bite. Uncomplicated and lovely. 89P

Moric Blaufrankisch 2005/Winetrader.dk aprrox 120dkk

Krebsekalas og chablis

2009-08-24T17:50:00.008+02:00

Weekenden forsvandt i de vældige svenske skove, og hvad er bedre end at lave sin egen krebsekalas med chablis. For godt 2 uger siden slog vi til på en kasse La Pierelee 2005, fra Chablisienne. Vi grillede en ordentlig bunke krebs, og havde vinen på køl.

For 79.95 kr er denne vin helt sikkert et godt køb. En frisk næse af hasselnød, eksotisk frugt, floral. Smagen er først frisk syrlig, mineralsk, lidt æble/pære noter, der overtages en nøddeagtig sødme, som hænger længe efter. 90P - Drud

Årgang 09 Danmark

2009-08-19T00:53:00.004+02:00

Sommeren 09 har været god og her idag kom endnu et indslag i pressen om det danske klima som værende velegnet for hvidvinsdruer. Vi har endnu ikke smagt på Danmark her på Grapejuices, men det må der snart laves om på. Hvad er jeres oplevelser med dansk vin?

Vin Dot Com

2009-08-10T19:32:00.008+02:00

Posted by Drud

Hvem har ikke prøvet at komme hjem fra ferie med en uforglemmelig vin oplevelse. Man købte en ukendt flaske og nu ønsker man sig brændende at drikke den igen. Ofte sker der et af 2 scenarier. Et, producenten importeres slet ikke i DK eller to, producenten føres i DK men til helt uhyrlige priser.

Og så er det jo besnærende at forsøge på internettet i denne globaliserede tidsalder. Men det bliver ofte ved tanken, for pludselig skal man vudere troværdigheden af Web-butikken, læse med småt og spekulere over porto, transporttid med mere. Dertiltrods køber vi rask væk bøger fra Amazon, CD fra musik websites, men ikke vin.

For mit eget vedkommende skyldes det primært at jeg ikke er tryg ved ved tanken om at en god flaske vin strander 2 uger i en varm postomdeling. Men tager internationale web-butikker ikke højde for det?

Jeg har endnu mit første udenlandske postordrekøb tilgode, men jeg har været fristet utallige gange. Man kan jo gøre eksperimentet at gå på http://www.wine-searcher.com og finde en af sine favoritter og samligne prisen mellem forhandlere i udlandet og så i Danmark (hvis den da findes i DK). Ofte forbløffes man over det vældige prisspænd, og man fristes derfor stærkt af at købe vin på ”dot.com” måden.

God vin koster mange penge

Ja god vin koster mange penge, i særdeleshed i Danmark! Men når jeg engang imellem ikke lader romantikken, historierne og dankortet løbe af med mig, er det fordi at selv den bedste vin ofte kun koster få euro at fremstille. Resten er den gode historie om vinen. Læs mere om det her.

Er der nogen som har gode erfaringer med vin indkøb fra udlandet så hører jeg gerne på jeres erfaringer..

White wine in Denmark - what to grow???

2009-08-05T13:07:00.006+02:00

For some time we have been thinking of establishing a wine parcel or two in Denmark. And after some hours of study, picking a locality, thoughts now arise on which grape varietal(s) would be suited for a minor wine production in Denmark. I suppose, due to the danish climate, that white wine grapes is the only natural choice.

With preliminary talk with www.vinplanten.dk on choice of sorts - the recommendation was "Johanitter" a fresh grape which by phone was described with some characteristics/similarities to Riesling (lets see about that!), and "Solaris" which is described as sweeter and more "heavy". Both should be ideel to mix, hence to find a prefered level of between the acidity and sweetness. Both grape varietals are quite resistant to the danish climate.

The list of grape varietals is long, and other sorts could be tried out, so any other recommendations or comments are welcome

Crab cakes and Chablis

2009-08-04T08:37:00.004+02:00

Matching food and wine is always a delicate matter. Even though there are some obvious parings, it always comes down to things like seasoning, cooking time and off course personal preferences. Here follows one of the more obvious ones but none the less it was a great paring.

Last week there was a sale on crab claws and Birgitte and I went and bought 2kg. The meat was taken out and estimated to around 800g of pure meat, not bad.

We started off by making a soup of the shells together with some fish leftovers. A little Pastis just gives this little hint of anis that goes so well with fish.

Thereafter we prepared the meat with a couple of eggs, a little Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper, parsley and some rolled oats to keep it together. The cakes were fried and served with linguini. The sauce was a bit of the reduced soup with added cream and some fine slices of carrot. A little nip of parsley gave it the green touch.

To this we drank a Chablis “La Pierrelée” from La Chablisienne with some age (2002). Nice minerality and a touch of citrus and peach. The age gives it a little buttery taste almost nutty. I bought a case of this a couple of years ago and I am now down to my last bottle (Sigh). This wine was a scoop at 80 DKR and has developed nicely over the years. However do I think that this wine has reached its limit in shelf life.

Mads E

Back in Denmark

2009-08-03T14:30:00.013+02:00

Posted by Drud

Back from an eventfull trip in Portugal. I found many new interesting wines and visited Dao and Collares. Unfortunately i could not bring as many bottles home this time around, but managed to get a few of Niepoorts projects (Colheita tardia, 2003, Tras Os Montes), Mouchao 2003 (Alentejo) and a bottle of Arenæ 2000, ramisco (Colares). I am very curious about the last one whether the tannins have softend after 8 years of bottling? ....I expect a test soon!

Rundt om Dão

2009-07-23T21:48:00.010+02:00

De sidste 2 dage har budt paa en spaenende rundtur i den store Dão region, der ligger lige under Douro. Som naevnt i tidligere skriv paa bloggen er de portugisiske vine ofte produceret paa ...hvad der nu gror i haven, og under mit besoeg paa en lokal vingaard forholdt det sig netop paa denne maade. Vinstokkene var mere end 120 aar gamle, og baghaven var en pose blandede bolscher af blandt andet Jaen, Tinto Pinho, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Fernao Pires (hvid drue) og Rosadinho (hvid og rose drue). Det skal dog retfaerdigt naevnes at vingaarden ikke producerer vin til kommercielt salg og dermed kunne vores gaestfrie vaert tillade sig at bruge, blande vin efter eget oenske. Alligevel bekraefter besoeget historien om en fantastisk druevariation som giver uanede muligheder (i haenderne paa den rigtige oenolog). Iaften staar vinmenuen paa endnu en Dão vin.

Casa da Insua 2004 reserva. Touriga nacional, cabernet saugvignon (introduceret til regionen), og jaen. En vin med naese af moerke baer, ristet og eg. 88 P
15Eur, koebt paa huset.

back in Lisbon

2009-07-21T09:42:00.004+02:00

and heading for the Dão region today to visit a vineyard this afternoon. Photos and impressions on new wines to come.