Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Happy new year for 2010

posted by drud
Happy New Year for 2010 and QOTD: Which wine are you planning to drink during the last hours of 2009 and which wine shall be the first for 2010?

I managed to get hold of one of the 2500 bottles from the new Cartuxa espumante series which was released for the first time this year. The wine is made on Arinto grown in Alentejo. Locally bought 27€.

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

Looking for Ramisco: Colares visited

posted by drud
Arenae Ramisco 2004

Color medium transparent with copper egdes. Huge bouquet of red cherries, dark chocolate, stone fruit, moist cellar and red meat. The taste is well structured, with notes of dark cherries and ink followed by a long finish where the tannins clear of the teeth. The well defined acidity of this wine makes me think of the characteristics of Nebbiolo. Wonderful. Locally bought at 9 €, 92P

More on Colares to come.

Sunday, December 27, 2009

Seafood and vinho verde

posted by drud

There is a rare match between Portuguese seafood and their Vinho verde (green wine). Vinho verde is produced in Minho, Portugal's most northern wine region, where a number of less-known white grapes thrive. Of these, the most known include loureiro, trajadura, arinto and alvarinho (albariño in spain). Green wines are fresh, often with low alcohol (10-12%) and are excellent companions to seafood.

It took, therefore, only a brief look at the wine menu to pair up a delightful seafood lunch at the coastline of Lisbon (Caparica).

Alvarinho Deu la Deu 2008 is from the subregion Monção and entirely produced on alvarinho.

Color transparent with an olive-green tone and natural-occurring bubbles. Nose of green apples and hints of lime. The taste is simple and dry with fresh acidity which makes up a long apple finish. 87P

Friday, December 25, 2009

Christmas wine #4 Pera-Manca Branco 07

posted by drud
My christmas wine for the traditional Bacalhau dish in Portugal had to be Pêra-Manca this year. I am a fan of the wines of Fundação Almeida, but had yet to try one of their top wines, the Pêra-Manca. The white is made from the Alentejo grapes Arinto and Antão-Vaz picked from granite soils. It's aged for 10 to 12 months in steel vats and french oak. Hereafter, it rests for 6 months more in the bottle.

Pêra-Manca 07
Nose of honey, flowers, and distinct tone of green almonds/hazel.
Nicely balanced with an apple/pear thing going on, ending with a finish of hazel. One would have guessed Chardonnay. Locally bought at 25 €, 91P

Wednesday, December 23, 2009

Christmas wine #3 Arenae Ramisco 2002

posted by drud
Yesterday's best (wine) experience was clearly the Aranae 2002 Ramisco. I had no idea that this wine also was made to drink this young. This bottle only come 50Cl and with an annualy production of 6000 bottles. I ordered the bottle mainly to satisfy my curiosity on ramisco, while preparing a mind talk on how this bottle perhaps should had been stored 40 more years before opening. After a slight sip, all prepared defense lines vanished. Aranae appears to made for drinking now, and I do sincerely recommend this wine. Notes to come..

Lisbon is full of sneaky corners, authentic cantinas, and one can not help surrending to such an atmosphere. The images posted are from Fabrica Lisboa, in Alcantara, where we had our last stop.

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Christmas wine #2 Alentejo red

posted by drud

Yesterday I had a new Portuguese wine, in what could be called ”seek and try out” for good christmas wine.

First up Aveleda’s red ”Charamba” from Douro, but the taste of this wine was simply not of my liking, ”Sharp, moulded, and alcoholic”.

Instead we turned to Alentejo to try Mouras de Arraiolos 2007, grande escolha.

I have often visited the lovely little village of Arriolos in Alentejo, because it hold one of Portugals gastronomic gems, the resturant ”moagem”. However, I had never tried this wine from same village. Mouras de Arraiolos is produced on, Cabernet sauvignon, Syrah and Alicante bouschet, aged for 12 months on new french oak.

Nose with hints of dark berries, spices, peat/tar, vanilia, cut grass and mint. Beautiful structure, well balanced and a good tannin bite to leave the mouth dry. Great food wine, 12€, locally bought. 90P

Monday, December 21, 2009

First christmas wine #1 Niepoorts Pinot Noir

posted by drud

First Chrismas wine was Niepoorts PN project which i had been wanting to taste for long, mainly driven by the big question - does it taste like burgundy?

The wine is medium dark (darker than french PN), and has a nose of dark red berries, spices and cigarbox wood. It has an elegant light structure, which first appears a bit creamy, then turning into a sweet smoky aftertaste. As for the big question (Burgundy or not) the answer is no. The nuances were few and we are in the new world PN style. However, to me, there was a Portuguese (spicy/herbs) signature in it, which i have tasted in many other Douro wines. I enjoyed the lightness, the aftertaste and the experiment. 92P

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Long journey and long silence

posted by drud
After a long silence here on the blog due to work in South america, I am back to Lisbon to celebrate christmas and try new portuguese wines. Surprises and disappointments will posted soon

First buy is Niepoort PN project (35 eur locally bought) which I have been wanting to try for long. PN is nearly not grown anywhere in Portugal, and it will be intresting to to test whether Niepoorts PN from Douro contain any bourgogne characteristics...

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Off to South America

Posted by Drud
Just came in the door from lovely Berlin where I spend the past two days in another area Prenzlauer Berg: contrary to my first days there, this area has lots of good resturants and wine shops in the streets. The journey from CPH to Berlin is only 35-50 min, but what a magnificent change one can experience here. I have to go back soon.

This friday I leave for South America on a film production where little internet is expected. I'll be back in December with new notes for Christmas wines. Till then.

Sunday, November 15, 2009

In Berlin

Posted by Drud

After a few funny try-outs with the lower end of german wines, which is not advisable, I turned to France. So yesterday night wine in Fridrichheim here in Berlin was from Rhone made on 50% syrah and 50% grenache. No regrets.

Domaine de Grangeneuve Terre d'espices 2006
Notes of coffe, horse-saddle, wet gras, and liqurice. Very fine mineral structure with a great after taste of pepper on the backend. 90P, 15€ locally bought.

....Still seaching for the fine Spätburgunder.

Thursday, November 12, 2009

Portuguese beauty with age

Posted by Drud
For the past time there has not been anything worth writing about, in terms of great, surprising wines or great-buys, which i've come across. Hence a bit of silence..

However, if one stuck out, it would be an elderly Portuguese which showed unussual livity, and thus deserves a note. Since I started collecting Portuguese wines in 2004/5, I've noticed that not all of them age with grace, in the same way as Bordeaux's, wines from Burgundy or Piemonte. After a few slips with older Portuguese table wines, I decided to uncork a Reguengos 2001 Garrafeira dos Socios from the Carmin Cooperative. I got it back in 2005 but it no longer retails in this vintage (now the 2002). Before opening, I feared the dissappointment but quite contrary it showed a huge strong livety! Great spicy complex nose, high coherent vertical structure and long finish. No flatness at all. We enjoyed it fully, although admittedly in between sips, I got the "could have kept it even longer" thoughts..
A fine Alentejo table wine with great liveliness - a shame it was the last bottle in the cellar..

...Off to Berlin tomorrow for Spätburgunder and other surprises.

Saturday, November 7, 2009

How to open a bottle of wine without a corkscrew

This is a rather new technique for most people, i am sure. Nevertheless watch and see the result..

Saturday, October 31, 2009

Wunderbar Spätburgunder

Akkompagneret af tre gode retter komponeret af Mads E, kom vi et nyt overraskende program igennem. Highlights for aftenen var Pinot fra Tyskland og en chianti. Aften bød desuden på premiere på champagne og en pinot fra Loire på Grape juices.


Terre de Vertus premiere cru

Næse af stenfrugt og dej. Smagen rummer flere lag, blomstret først, tør, fyldig med eftersmag af surdej/rugbrød i næsen. Købt i Brussels (31€), handles også ved Esprit du vin (340dkk).

Meursault 2008

a savigny-les-beaune (cote d’or)

Lækker og tiltalende bouquet af anis, lakrids, og æble. Medium krop, og knaphed i syren. Hvor bouquet’en vakte stor spænding er smagen og eftersmagen ikke den helt store oplevelse. Vinen er (måske) derfor allerede klar til drikke nu. Oxholm vine 230dkk. 89-90P

Domaine Pelle 2007

Les bornes menetou-salon

Næse af hindbær, let note af stald, vanilie og eg. På trods af en relativ lav alkohol procent (12.5%) var der også strejf af alkohol i næsen. Smagen er blød, afrundet, ja næsten designet og tilpasset. Drikkeklar nu. Man savner lidt vildskab. 88P

Baden Huber 2005

Bernhard huber Spätburgunder

Fantastisk næse af jordbær, peber, jord, og blåskimmel ost. Smagen er let, mineralsk, en flot syre giver vinen en lang og herlig eftersmag. Denne vin skaber konvertitter blandt Pinot noir skeptikere. Vinhuset Luffe’s gård, Stege. 92P

Riecine 2004

Chianti classico

Næse af rød frugt, sure kirsebær, stenfrugt, blyant. Vinen har en hammerstærk struktur båret af tannin ryggrad sjældent set lige. Vinen er lavet på 100% sangiovese og viser høj klasse. Den kan formentligt overleve de næste mange generation i kælderen. Viniportugal 280dkk. 91P

Ekstra numre

Vin Jeaune 2002

Caveau Des Byards, Cotes de Jura

Usædvanelig rustik hvidvin med kant i kaptejn Haddock flaske. Næse af stålværksted ogoxideret tawny/sherry. Et finurligt og autentisk indspil fra en lille fransk lomme ved Jura bjergene.

Quinta do Crasto 2005

Næse af skibstjære og tobak. Smag fyldig, rund, og der er "højt til loftet" med god syre. Rated "no 4 best wine" af wine spectator i 2008. Portugisisk vinkælder 185dkk

Saturday, October 24, 2009

Vine fra den gamle verden og et mosefund fra Napa

postet by drud
Fredag lykkedes det at samle vin og jazz-entusiasterne igen, og med frit tema kom vi godt rundt på verdens vin terrasser. Vi lagde ud med en ny vin fra den store portugisiske eksperimenteur Dirk Niepoort, som er undervejs med en ny serie vine, hvor man kan finde pinot noir, riesling, og ædel riesling. Da druerne jo ikke er naturlige for Duero regionen må kan de nye vine kun klassificeres som ”Vinho Regional Duriense”. Der er kun produceret 1400 flasker af denne vin som er dyrket på 20år gamle stokke i ca 800 meters højde.
Riesling 2006 Niepoort Projects
Farve hvedegul med næse af citrus, gul kornblomst og engelsk lakrids. Smagen er blød, mellem krop, rank, og med en lækker 30sek eftersmag af engelsk lakrids. Vinen gjorde et godt indtryk, og blev ved med at åbne sig under smagningen, og vi siger på gensyn. Købt i Portugal (15€).87P, 89P, 89P
Herefter fulgte en Bordeaux fra venstre bred. Der blev overraskende nok gættet i øst-vest på denne vin, førend det stod klart at her var der tale om en klassisk bordeaux fra Saint Emilion.
Chateau Haut-Corbin 2003
En lidt snæver bouquet af blyant, grøn peber, mørk chokolade og tobak. Vinen er lidt solet, men er velstruktureret og afbalanceret. Den savner måske lidt personlighed. Skal drikkes nu. Erik Sørensen 190kr. 86P, 88P, 88P
Nu til aftenens bedste oplevelse, fra Spanien. San Roman er fra regionen Toro og Tempranillo druens flotte taninbid med smag af vanilje og peber, fik os hurtigt på sporet af en Ribera del Duero….eller deromkring. San Roman er netop kåret som #36 i Wine Spectators 100 bedste vine. Vinen var dekanteret i over 5 timer inden vi smagte på den.
San Román 2004
Vinen er næsten blæksort med en bouquet af mørke bær, træ, vanilie og tobak. Smagen giver først toner af jordbær, modne hyldebær hvorefter man får eftersmag i mund og næse af mint. Vinen er købt i Theis vine for 180kr (tilbud) og til den pris er det et godt køb. 92P, 92P, 93P
Herefter fulgte en skuffelse for undertegnet. Der er få ældre vin-ikoner på Portugisiske Alentejo-slette, og Mouchao er et af dem. Vinen er særdeles kendt og elsket i Portugal og man betaler der også derefter.
Mouchâo 2003
Dyb rød vin med bouquet af ung frugt, mørke kirsebær, tobak og antydning af appelsin. Smagen er meget rund og fyldig og giver referencer mod Merlot. Skal drikkes nu, men vinen savner personlig taget i betragtning af dens omdømme. Vinen er købt i Portugal for 31€. 88P

Når Ryggraden flås ud af en Cabernet
Sidst blev det udgravet et mosefund fra reolen. Jeg havde lovet mig selv at begynde en oprydning på af vinreolen efter nogle skuffende oplevelser af ældre vin som skulle ligge til en-eller-anden-gang ude i fremtiden. Derfor sluttede aften med noget af en kuriositet Vigil Vineyards fra Napa. Vinen er lavet på 100% Cabernet Franc, og efter mange år i kælderen beskrives den bedst som ”After-Eight” på flaske. Vinen indeholdte mere suspenderet bundfald end en skovmose man lige havde trampet igennem. Vi filtrede vinen 2 gange igennem med en bomuld-si, hvorefter sien blev behjælpeligt blækfarvet og kunne smides direkte ud. Vinen var nærmest umulig at gætte blindt, men et de første indtryk den forlod affødte smagskommentaren "som at flå ryggraden ud af en cabernet"
Vigil 1997
Sherry farve med lange kobber kanter. Distinkt bouquet af kogechokolade, solbær, vanilie, "jenka tygummi", mint og krisebær.
I smagen fulgte den kirschagtige tone med, med en sødme af solbær/brombær. Eftersmag af fyretræ og mint. Sat på formel med kogechokoladen har man opskriften på After Eight! Der var naturligvis ikke skyggen af taniner. Sidste vin var et eksperiment og der blev ikke givet point. World of Wine, pris?

Sunday, October 18, 2009

A great buy: part 2

The only good thing about the Danish soccer game against Hungary was the wine. Bought at an offer of 80dkk/bottle, we purchased a box of Torrione Petrolo 2006. We have been around this wine before on Grapejuices (link), and the 2004 vintage from Torrione made number 63 in Wine Spectators best 100 (in 2006). The wine is only classified IGT, and one suspects a "little visit" by cabernet sauvignon perhaps?

Torrione Petrolo 2006
Vibrant red color, with a great bouquet of red berries, wet rotten grass, truffels and visit to the horse stable. Upon tasting the wine is in perfect balanced with no agressive tannins and most enjoyable, an extraordinare after taste of walnuts. 90P

In conclusion a great buy and a damn shame I only have one bottle left.
- drud

Monday, October 12, 2009

Cleaning up and finding a 'comeback kid' in the cellar

When the family visits from Lisbon, we get a chance to clean up some ’old timers’ in the cellar. Tonight we found a Garrafeira Reserva 2001, which we personally picked up in Borba, deep within the Portuguese wine region of Alentejo. The cork left the bottle swiftly, perhaps a bit too swiftly to my liking, and my alertness was further raised by a nose of alcohol, pencil, and stone fruity. We decanted the wine in a carafe but deemed the wine as ”gone-over” and ’assymetric’. After dinner we gave the wine a last chance poured the glasses.

Garrafeira 2001, Adega coop de Borba

Nose: Dark cherries, plums, english liqurice, oak, (still some base of balsamico)

The sourness had left and was replaced by a mature (older) wine with medium body and soft tannins. The wine had raised itself from a flat and sour experience to a balanced and rather proud wine. The wine had however lost some of it youth and hence a score of 86P

Have you ever tried this before?

Sunday, October 11, 2009

World Cup and the taste of South Africa

posted by drud
Yesterday Denmark qualified for the world cup in South Africa 2010. Perhaps this event will lead us to explore the vareties of South African wines, which to me is rather unknown..
south Africa has long tradition for wine growing, and I've heard of good producers which make use of the old european blends such as cab. sauvignon and merlot or grenache and syrah.

Apart from Eben Sadie's wonderful 'Columella', which we tried to a biodynamic wine tasting in Copenhagen, I have not tried many South African wines which has left me with an impression of the something absolutely unique...
So question of the day: which South Africa wine thrills you the most?

Saturday, October 10, 2009

Just for the record

Aftenens vin var fra Terras do Sado der ligger lige syd for Lissabon. Her druen Castelão meget udbredt der også kendt under navnet ’Periquita’, der senere har givet navn til en serie vine.

Pegões Reserva 2002

Farve: Mellemrød med kobberkanter.

BQ kraftig men simpel. Toner af blyant, mørke bær, blæk, peber og alkohol

Smag: Først flad, oxideret efterfulgt af mellemsmag af peber. Der er stadig lidt bid i syren som kommer sidst.

Etiketten siger: kan gemmes optil 10år. Virkeligheden er en anden, og vinen var allerede flyttet på allerdomshjem. 82P


Thursday, October 8, 2009

Den nye verden i den gamle

Siden tirsdag har køleskabet gemt på en af Portugals gode vine. Quinta do Vale Meão kom for alvor på verdens kortet da de i 2004 (som er et fremragende år Portugal) kom Wine Spectators liste med deres 1 vin med hele 97 Point.

Meandro er 2 vinen og referer til Duero-flodens slygende spor i landskabet. Vinen er (næsten) lavet på Portugals ”big five” druer: Touriga Nacional (40%), Tinta Roriz (tempranillo) 30%, Tinta Franca (5%), Tinta Cão og De Sousa (5%). Sidstnævte (De Sousa) er knap så udbredt, men bruges til at lave Vinhão, en Vinho verde på en rød drue.

Quinta Vale Meão Meandro 2007

Farve: Mørk rubinrød, gardiner purpurøde med blå kant.

Bouquet: Først tone af røde kirsebær, efterfulgt af modne kirsebær, solbær, krydderier, vanilie, nødder, våd skovbund, blomstret.

Smag: fin struktur, lakris m eftersmag af cassis, blåbær og bløde tanniner i gummerne.

Portugals nye generation af vine er generelt er historien om mødet mellem den nye og den gamle vinverden. Kort fortalt - voldsom bouquet pakket ind i en fin struktur (ingen bombe alarm!).


posted by drud

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Poderina Rosso di Montalcino

posted by: drud
Sidste år havde vi fornøjelsen af prøve La Poderina's brunello fra den sagnomspundne årgang 1997. Det var en fantastisk oplevelse, og lige siden har jeg været nysgerrig for at prøve deres Rosso. La Poderina stammer fra Montalcino, syd for Firenze. Mens deres Brunello ligger på fad i 3 år, er Rosso'en hældt over på flaske efter 1 år.

La Poderina Rosso Di Montalcino 06
Kraftfuld ren bouquet af røde frugter (jordbær/hindbær), også grønne toner. Renheden i næse og smag virker klassisk (italiensk) og giver en vinen en rank "kold" struktur. Smagen er domineret af en kraftfuld frugtsyre, men kroppen følger dog godt med. Til vores store overraskelse er der ikke tale om et markant tanninbid eksempelvis.

Fremfor de mange nuancer vi fandt i den modne brunello, må denne Rosso 06 nok mest beskrives som flot, linær, raceren Sangiovese. Der er gemmepotentiale i vinen, og det er et behageligt glas vin, men uden stor personlighed.
88P, Erik Sørensen vin 149dkk

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Mouton Rothschild La Turque Montrachet Sassicaia..

..just to mention a few. Last friday we tried them all at Børsen, in the central part of CPH. An absolute terrific event. This post make no justice for all the wonderful wines we tested. However, there were also some cheap and affordable wines which gave showed great potential.

Condando de Haza 2005
Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero at its most drink-friendly expression. Vanilla, creamy, soft tannins with a great structure. Even to drink right now. Price set at 99dkk/bottle during the event.

Amayna 2008
A Sauvignon blanc from Chile with very rich nose of edler flowers, honey, salty, and wellbalanced, medium creamy taste. Absolutely all 80dkk/bottle worth for every sip.

Even tough it may sound impossible to outshine the whelm of superior wines from Bordeaux and Super tuscans, one did it. Montrachet! Never in my life has white wine been so delicate, rich, fresh, balanced. We tried the Puligny-Montrachet 2002 1. Cru Clos Mouchere Domaine Boillot once, moved on, came back and tried twice and lastly left the arrangement with the taste of the faboulus wine in our minds.

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

German Riesling,again!!

Some time ago we tasted a few different German Rieslings which left us (or at least me) wondering whether German Riesling is just not for us. The only way to find out is to try out more of the German stuff. This time I chose the basic Riesling from one of the most renowned producers who is highly praised for his intense and well-structured wines.

Keller Riesling Trocken 2008

The wine was opened and poured. In the nose it seems a little reluctant to reveal its secrets, yet a few swirls uncovers notes of grapefruit, white flowers and something in the line of wet rocks. In the mouth you instantly feel the acidity. Very stringent with lots of minerals yet to me it lacks a bit of body to cope with the acidity. The wine is highly extracted (maybe a bit too much for me), which gives you a sort of dry sensation in the mouth. The word is that this only gets even more intense in his other wines. The wine was tasted again on day 2 and 4 without much happening. A little more open in the nose but still young and very fresh.

The overall verdict of this wine is that you get an amazing wine for just 69 DKR at atomwine. Yet, due to the acidity and high extract, this wine is actually not that easy to drink in large quantities. I find that one glass of this is enough and would then like to move on to something else. But what a glass.



Sunday, September 20, 2009

Italian wines on a saturday night

By chance we had three Italian wines on a last satudays blind tasting. It was a free call - but somehow we managed to chose three bottles from Italys more nortern parts. 
We started of in Veneto with secondary wine of the big amarone. The Ripasso is ever so often shaded by Amarone, but these wines are not  to neglect for two reasons. Firstly, as you may enjoy a lighter and more mineral wine contrary to the hefty amarone, or secondly because you find you self drinking a fantastic wine, similar to amarone but for a much cheaper price. 

Montezovo Ripasso Valpolicaella 2005
Nose: hints of strawberris came through first. pebber and vanilia. 
Upon tasting the red berries are quickly replaced by a dry (sherry like) and bitter dark chocolate. 89P, Erik Sørensen vin 149 dkk

Next wine up was perhaps tonights best experience, and also most hard to nail. A bordeaux wine from Italy. This wine is made on Cabernet sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. 

Villa Fidelia rosso 2003
Bouquet of dark red berries, oak (barrique), coffe and dark chocolate. 
The taste is rich, copulent but overall in well balance with the level acidity. There is a fine harmony between its volume, structure and sweetness. 90P, Theis vine 200dkk

We ended the evening with one of the most known Vino Nobile from Montepuliciano, the Asinone.The wine was opened and decanted 5 hr before tasting. 

Poliziano Asinone 2005
Bouquet of red berries, grass, oak and leather and slight hints of animalistic tones. Its a well structured wine, dry, and with a medium hard tannins. This wine may easily evolve more over the following years. 89P, Oxholm vine 279dkk

Monday, September 7, 2009

A red (and white) weekend

Apparently players in red stand a better chance of winning in football than other colours. Due to the importance of the football match against Portugal last Saturday, I chose to open a red bottle.

La Colombina rosso di Montalcino 2006 DOC

In many respects a vineyards rosso is a good indicator of the ditto Brunello. In this case the Sangiovese vines (aka Brunello) are simply not old enough to produce the more sophisticated brunello and thus we end up with this rosso. When I first tasted this wine the wood was very dominant, but there were promises of a well developing fruit if you were prepared to wait for it. Now 1½ years later it is time to check the status of this wine.

On the first day it poured out light clear and red. It was a little closed both in the nose and mouth with notes of fresh cherries and some spice. It finishes a bit short but is very drinkable. To me, this wine gives a good impression of how elegant wines made on sangiovese can be. In fact this wine reminded me more of Chianti than Brunello, but this is off course dependent of which specific wines you compare it to. It was accompanying ducks leg with a mix of potatoes, onions, carrots, parsley roots and butternut squash baked in the oven. As you might have guessed the wine could not quite match this pairing. I am, however, convinced that this wine will suit a lot of lighter dishes such as pasta, chicken and veal.

On the second day it was more open but it seems as if it is not quite ready to reveal its full potential so the remaining bottles will have to wait a little longer (not too long though).

88 P

/Mads E

Monday, August 31, 2009

Blaufrankisch - an indian summerwine

Posted by Drud

September is here and we now tend to leave summers light wines and enjoy the more full bodied ones. There are, however, wines that still target the seasons small changes delightfully. The other day I found a bottle of Blaufrankisch from Burgenland. I am quite a fan of these "colder" reds, as they have a rich and heavy bouquet yet surprising crispy (and lighter) body with good fruit. A recipe for a perfect Indian summer wine.  

After 30 min open, a great bouquet grew out of the bottle with dark cherries, chalk, earth, salt licorice, and oak. The wine is mineral with a fresh bite. Uncomplicated and lovely. 89P 

Moric Blaufrankisch 2005/ aprrox 120dkk

Monday, August 24, 2009

Krebsekalas og chablis

Weekenden forsvandt i de vældige svenske skove, og hvad er bedre end at lave sin egen krebsekalas med chablis.  For godt 2 uger siden slog vi til på en kasse La Pierelee 2005, fra Chablisienne.  Vi grillede en ordentlig bunke krebs, og havde vinen på køl. 

For 79.95 kr er denne vin helt sikkert et godt køb. En frisk næse af hasselnød, eksotisk frugt, floral. Smagen er først frisk syrlig, mineralsk, lidt æble/pære noter, der overtages en nøddeagtig sødme, som hænger længe efter. 90P - Drud

Wednesday, August 19, 2009

Årgang 09 Danmark

Sommeren 09 har været god og her idag kom endnu et indslag i pressen om det danske klima som værende velegnet for hvidvinsdruer.  Vi har endnu ikke smagt på Danmark her på Grapejuices,  men det må der snart laves om på. Hvad er jeres oplevelser med dansk vin? 

Monday, August 10, 2009

Vin Dot Com

Posted by Drud

Hvem har ikke prøvet at komme hjem fra ferie med en uforglemmelig vin oplevelse. Man købte en ukendt flaske og nu ønsker man sig brændende at drikke den igen. Ofte sker der et af 2 scenarier. Et, producenten importeres slet ikke i DK eller to, producenten føres i DK men til helt uhyrlige priser.

Og så er det jo besnærende at forsøge på internettet i denne globaliserede tidsalder. Men det bliver ofte ved tanken, for pludselig skal man vudere troværdigheden af Web-butikken, læse med småt og spekulere over porto, transporttid med mere. Dertiltrods køber vi rask væk bøger fra Amazon, CD fra musik websites, men ikke vin. 

For mit eget vedkommende skyldes det primært at jeg ikke er tryg ved ved tanken om at en god flaske vin strander 2 uger i en varm postomdeling. Men tager internationale web-butikker ikke højde for det?

Jeg har endnu mit første udenlandske postordrekøb tilgode, men jeg har været fristet utallige gange. Man kan jo gøre eksperimentet at gå på og finde en af sine favoritter og samligne prisen mellem forhandlere i udlandet og så i Danmark (hvis den da findes i DK). Ofte forbløffes man over det vældige prisspænd, og man fristes derfor stærkt af at købe vin på ”” måden.

God vin koster mange penge

Ja god vin koster mange penge, i særdeleshed i Danmark! Men når jeg engang imellem ikke lader romantikken, historierne og dankortet løbe af med mig, er det fordi at selv den bedste vin ofte kun koster få euro at fremstille. Resten er den gode historie om vinen.  Læs mere om det her.

Er der nogen som har gode erfaringer med vin indkøb fra udlandet så hører jeg gerne på jeres erfaringer..

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

White wine in Denmark - what to grow???

For some time we have been thinking of establishing a wine parcel or two in Denmark. And after some hours of study, picking a locality, thoughts now arise on which grape varietal(s) would be suited for a minor wine production in Denmark. I suppose, due to the danish climate, that white wine grapes is the only natural choice. 

With preliminary talk with on choice of sorts - the recommendation was "Johanitter" a fresh grape which by phone was described with some characteristics/similarities to Riesling (lets see about that!), and "Solaris" which is described as sweeter and more "heavy". Both should be ideel to mix, hence to find a prefered level of between the acidity and sweetness. Both grape varietals are quite resistant to the danish climate.

The list of grape varietals is long, and other sorts could be tried out, so any other recommendations or comments are welcome

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Crab cakes and Chablis

Matching food and wine is always a delicate matter. Even though there are some obvious parings, it always comes down to things like seasoning, cooking time and off course personal preferences. Here follows one of the more obvious ones but none the less it was a great paring.

Last week there was a sale on crab claws and Birgitte and I went and bought 2kg. The meat was taken out and estimated to around 800g of pure meat, not bad.

We started off by making a soup of the shells together with some fish leftovers. A little Pastis just gives this little hint of anis that goes so well with fish.

Thereafter we prepared the meat with a couple of eggs, a little Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper, parsley and some rolled oats to keep it together. The cakes were fried and served with linguini. The sauce was a bit of the reduced soup with added cream and some fine slices of carrot. A little nip of parsley gave it the green touch.

To this we drank a Chablis “La Pierrelée” from La Chablisienne with some age (2002). Nice minerality and a touch of citrus and peach. The age gives it a little buttery taste almost nutty. I bought a case of this a couple of years ago and I am now down to my last bottle (Sigh). This wine was a scoop at 80 DKR and has developed nicely over the years. However do I think that this wine has reached its limit in shelf life.

Mads E

Monday, August 3, 2009

Back in Denmark

Posted by Drud
Back from an eventfull trip in Portugal. I found many new interesting wines and visited Dao and Collares. Unfortunately i could not bring as many bottles home this time around, but managed to get a few of Niepoorts projects (Colheita tardia, 2003, Tras Os Montes), Mouchao 2003 (Alentejo) and a bottle of Arenæ 2000, ramisco (Colares). I am very curious about the last one whether the tannins have softend after 8 years of bottling? ....I expect a test soon!

Thursday, July 23, 2009

Rundt om Dão

De sidste 2 dage har budt paa en spaenende rundtur i den store Dão region, der ligger lige under Douro. Som naevnt i tidligere skriv paa bloggen er de portugisiske vine ofte produceret paa ...hvad der nu gror i haven, og under mit besoeg paa en lokal vingaard forholdt det sig netop paa denne maade. Vinstokkene var mere end 120 aar gamle, og baghaven var en pose blandede bolscher af blandt andet Jaen, Tinto Pinho, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Fernao Pires (hvid drue) og Rosadinho (hvid og rose drue). Det skal dog retfaerdigt naevnes at vingaarden ikke producerer vin til kommercielt salg og dermed kunne vores gaestfrie vaert tillade sig at bruge, blande vin efter eget oenske. Alligevel bekraefter besoeget historien om en fantastisk druevariation som giver uanede muligheder (i haenderne paa den rigtige oenolog). Iaften staar vinmenuen paa endnu en Dão vin.

Casa da Insua 2004 reserva. Touriga nacional, cabernet saugvignon (introduceret til regionen), og jaen. En vin med naese af moerke baer, ristet og eg. 88 P
15Eur, koebt paa huset.

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

back in Lisbon

and heading for the Dão region today to visit a vineyard this afternoon. Photos and impressions on new wines to come.

Friday, July 17, 2009

Smagen af Portugal? En lille guide til Portugals bordvine

Af Drud

Forleden stod jeg i Superbest’ vinafdeling for at finde vin til en sammenkomst. Jeg henvendte mig til ekspedienten i vinsektionen for at høre om de havde vine fra Portugal? Efter en kort tavshed kom svaret prompte ”Nej, og det har noget at gøre med at Portugal ikke producere noget nævneværdigt hvor pris og kvalitet hænger sammen, ellers ville vi naturligvis have haft det”. Jeg vover postulatet at han tager fejl og derfor dette indlæg om landet med nogle af Europas ældste vinregioner.

Sørgeligt nok er Portugals vinrenomme ofte belemret med den småbitre genkendelse af Netto’s ”Periquita” eller den rædselsfulde dråbeformede Mateus flaske – der står i øjenhøjde med supermarkedets papvine. Men med lidt nysgerrighed, og her kan jeg citere fra Robert Parkers nye guide winebuyers (7th edition) ”A little exploration here is well rewarded”, venter der her store overraskelser.

Noahs ark ladet med vin

Geografien og historien har efterladt Portugal i næsten total isolation fra resten af Verden. Med Atlanten mod vest, bjerge i nord og et vældigt Spanien i øst, har kun få druesorter og vine klaret rejsen ud fra den Ibiriske halvøs sydvestlige hjørne.

Men Portugals diverse topografi og ældgamle vintraditioner har efterladt en arv med en diversitet sjældent set i noget andet vinland. Da man opgjorde en botanisk fortegnelse over Portugals druevarianter i 1916 beskrev man over 900 forskellige druevarianter. Mange af disse sorter er ukendte, nærmest ubetydelige og kloner af hinanden, men blandt dem finder man op mod 22 endemiske (kun voksende i Portugal) vinsorter som er særligt spændende.

I gamle dage og bag etikken af Portugisisk vin

Portugals bordvine består ofte af et blend af mere eller mindre ukendte vinsorter. Historisk set skyldes det, at de lokale vinbønder ganske enkelt benyttede en stor variation af vinsorter. Begrundelsen var simpel; bukkede nogle under for årets vejrlig, ja så overlevede de andre mere robuste.

[Det store blend gav rustikke vine med uhøjtidelig charme]

Vinen havde ikke en større kommerciel værdi og årets høst blev indleveret til det lokale kooperativ, hvorefter man blev tildelt flasker fra årets høst. Det store blend gav rustikke vine med en uhøjtidelig charme.

Tankesættet er forståeligt men det stiller sig svært på det moderne marked. Men sætter man det til side giver historien en forklaring på hvorfor så mange store portugisiske bordvine i dag er fremkommet og forfinet igennem generationers erfaring med et blend af mange vinsorter. Det ses særligt i Douro regionen hvor man kan nyde fremragende bordvine produceret på ”The Big Five” portvins druer (Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão, Tinta Roriz (Aragonez/Tempranillo), og Tinta Barroca.

Hvad er der sket?

Portugal har gennemført en række reformer som har bragt landet på linie med andre Europæiske vinlande. Den store udvikling kom dog med indgangen til EU i 1986 og med det cashflow som fulgte. Massive investeringer har fuldstændigt forandret vinindustrien i Portugal fra små diskrete vinbrug til top moderne vinproducenter og kooperativer. Vinproducenterne har genopdaget deres mange vinsorter (nogle har været næsten helt tabt) og kursen er nu sat mod det internationale marked.

Fra Quinta til Kult

Ansporet af mere lempelige statsregler og et større cashflow, løsrev flere vingårde (quinta’er) sig fra de mange kooperativer og en helt ny klasse af vinproducenter trådte ud af skyggen fra fortidens standardiserede og kedelige vinproduktion.

[Det er billigere i Danmark]

Men helt ud af skyggen er Portugal dog ikke nået endnu og selvom gode vine nu er tilgængelige, er efterspørgslen af Portugals bordvine i udlandet næsten lig nul. Det skaber et kæmpe pres på Portugals kultproducenter så som Barca Velha, Quinta do Vale Meão og Pêra-Manca, hvis vine er sindsoprivende dyre i Portugal, men hvis navne er stort set ukendte i her hjemme. Derfor vil man opleve af disse vine er billigere i Danmark og med fordel handles til gode priser (i forhold til i Portugal).

Hvad skal man prøve (NB priserne er toneangivende)

Vinho Verde (fra 40kr)

I Portugals nordligste hjørne findes vinregionen Minho (udtales Min-jo) hvor den lette friske Vinho verde produceres (den grønne vin). Det er den perfekte sommervin til terrassen eller en gang skaldyr. Vinen drikkes ung og nydes ofte samme år eller lige derefter. Der findes en række gode producenter, men de er svære at finde i Danmark. Lad derfor ikke en billig supermarkedsvin tegne billedet af Minho og dets Vinho verde.

Luís Pato (fra 100kr)

Når talen falder på Portugisiske vine, er det svært at komme uden om vinmageren Luís Pato. Han er kendt for at gå egne veje og Luís Pato er indbegrebet af Portugals diversitet og brug af egne oprindelige druer. I det indre centrale Portugal dyrkes den næsten umulige lille tykskallede Baga drue som giver taninholdige vine. Der er få vinmagere som mestre at få noget ud af denne drue, men her udvirker Luís Pato mindre mirakler på sine oldgamle vinstokke. Vinene kan for nogle virke krydret og rustikke, men bestemt herlige for dem der vil prøve noget nyt.

Esporão (Reserva fra 150kr)

Kæmpe Alentejo hus der både producerer vin til ingen penge, men også gode topvine som fås for overkommelige penge. Deres røde Esporão Reserva produceres primært på Trincadeira, Aragonez [Tempranillo], og noget Cabernet Sauvignon. Det er en krydret sag, men bestemt et fint køb.

Niepoort (fra ca 200kr)

Dirk Niepoort er Portugals store eksperimenteur og en af de store kræfter bag Portugals nye ansigt udadtil. Fra sine vinmarker i nordøstlige hjørne Trás-os-Montes, Douroflodens forlængelse af den spanske vinregion Ribera del Duero, produceres der fremragende vine. Med sit store materiale af forskellige druesorter hylder Dirk Niepoort sit store forbilleder i bl.a. smagen af Duorodalen, Bordeaux og Borgogne. Prøv først Dirks ”Redoma” og rækker pengepungen bør man også prøve ”Batuta” eller ”Charme”.

Quinta do Crasto (optil 200kr)

Igen befinder vi os i Douro regionen og Quinta do Crasto producerer deres bordvine på de gamle portvins druer, the big five: Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão, Tinta Roriz (Aragonez/Tempranillo), og Tinta Barroca. Quinta do Crasto producerer en række top vine fra enkelt marker, men et af de store og interessante gennembrud var deres Reserva vin som i 2005 blev ratet i WineSpectator som 4 bedste vin for 2008.

Cortes de Cima (mellem 100-400kr)

En dansker i Portugal. Cortes de Cima Reserva drives af danske Hans Christian og amerikanske Carrie Jørgensen, som i 1988 realiserede en drøm om at drive en stor vingård. På det 375 hektar store gods, blev der først produceret tomater og meloner, men siden er der plantet 50 hektar vin, hvor af en stor del udgøres af Syrah. Syrah er ikke oprindelig for Portugal, men introduktionen af netop denne drue i det varme Alentejo skulle vise sig at være et særdeles godt træk. Udover Syrah laves vinene bl.a. på Trincadeira, Castelão og Touriga Nacional. Der produceres 3 vine som bør nævnes her. Bordvinen Cortes de Cima og dens fornemme ”Reserva”, og ikke mindst ”Incognito” som laves på 100% Syrah. Da vinen først blev lanceret var Syrah druen naturligvis udenfor det portugisisk reglementet, og derfor fik flasken navnet ”Incognito”.

Quinta do Vale Meão (fra 400kr)

Quinta do Vale Meão er et af Portugals helt store stjerneskud og Vale Meão har været blandt de første til at udvikle Douro dalens nye bordvine. Siden 1950’erne blev vingården blandt andet leverandør til den mytologiske Barca Velha. I 90’erne skiftede Quinta do Vale Meão ejerskab og de gamle lagares (stenkar) som man brugte til vinproduktion i 70’erne blev restaureret og taget i brug igen, nu med moderne udstyr. Da 1999 årgangen første gang så dagens lys var en ny kultvin født.

Pêra-Manca og Cartuxa (fra 170 – 700kr)

I det centrale Alentejo og ved Evora’s gamle bymure ligger et gammelt kloster med der til hørende vingård. Det blev bygget i 1587, men grundet religiøse kontroverser blev vingarden privat eje i 1834. I 1963 overgik vingården til velgørenhedsfonden, Fundação Eugénio de Almeida, som i dag driver stedet. Fortidens religiøse islet er dog ikke helt væk og på flaskerne står der ”Deus labor et constantia” (lidt frit oversat…”Guds arbejde er permanent).

Her laves kultvinen Pêra-Manca som fortjener nogle liner her. Pêra-Manca var allerede et stort navn forinden vinlusens hærgen i 1871. Efterfølgende blev markerne skovet og vinen var tabt. Først i 1987 begyndte man igen at producere vinen og vinen laves nu kun i særdeles gode år. Første årgang udkom i 1990, og siden er det blevet til 91, 94, 95, 2003 og 2005.

Men man behøver ikke starte med at smage (og betale) for en af Portugals helt store vine. Samme producent laver anden vinen Cartuxa, som er væsentlig billigere men som står distancen – by far! Det er en rigtig god vin at starte med.

Barca Velha (fra 870kr mod uhyrlige priser)

Vinen over alle er Portugals første kultvin ”Barca Velha” (den gamle båd). Vinen er nærmest mytologisk og produceres på Douro’s portvinsdruer. Siden den blev til i 1952 har den kun været produceret i særligt gode år. Det er blevet til 15 årgange. Sidste årgang er 2000 som blev frigivet efter 8 års lagering. Vinen har netop skiftet ejerskab, og denne årgang er måske den sidste.


Der findes naturligvis mange flere…..og er der nogen som har prøvet andre portugisiske vine eller vil dele andre meninger, indtryk da fat tastaturet og del jeres kommentarer her

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Looking for Ramisco

3 days to go, and then its once again of to Portugal. This time around my search is on for Ramisco wine from Collares - for trying a taste of an old ungrafted wine from the pre-phylloxera era.  
After this i plan for a visit to a private vinyard in the central Portugal, with promises of a great vintage for 2009. More info and pics to come...

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Jazz'n Wine

Posted by Anders D

Last friday provided an interesting tasting under a free theme with wines from France, Argentina and Spain. 

Marquis de Calon 1996 
A older bordeaux from Saint-Estephe. Notes of coffe and oak but also bit "chalky"due to its age. The wine had a fine structure kept up by the cabernet. Drink now (if not before). 90P

Centenario Reserva 2005
A pure cabernet sauvignon with notes of red berries, liquerice, and oak from the storage. Although not the wine is not heavy on alcohol (13%) hints of alcohol stuck out on the nose. The taste is dry and roasted with hints of fig. A fine stucture but it may also rest. Drink now, 87P
bought at Los Andes (amager)

Hacienda el Monasterio 2005
Full blooded Temperanillo from Ribeiro del Duero. Here the little thick skinned temperanillo grape grow into masculin potent wine, rich of tannins for longlivity. The wine is made by Peter Sisseck from Domino de Pingus, and the 2005 Crianza was a blend of 80% temperanillo mixed with blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The wine is reviewed and highly recommended on where comments and notes are also given. Its a wine we for sure will try again - till then. Deep red, with a nose of dark berries, coffee, vanila, chocolate amongst others. 91-93P. Grapewise 215dkk

Friday, July 10, 2009

Parkers guide for Wine buyers

Posted by Anders D

Today I dropped by a bookstore and litteraly fell over Parkers 7th wine guide. I kind of stopped using my old one (6th), simply as it started to be too outdated with long commentaries on vintages from the mid/late 90'ties, which now appear too rare in shops.

The new book however, evaluate wines from 2000 to 2006, and to my great surprise the book contains many more detailed maps of wine regions in the world.
Adding to this, and to my pleasure, the book also contains whole 62 pages on the portuguese wine and ports. In last edition Portugal barely got a note, but this has changed along side with the attention and quality of Portuguese wine.

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Friday Free Theme

This weekend arrives with a mini tasting in the middle of the CPH jazzfestival. Its "free theme" so let's see what's new on the wine racks in the shops of Copenhagen. 

Monday, July 6, 2009

Die Erwartung war die Größte: German rieslings at the test

….The expectations were the best as this weekend offered a serious line of german Riesling, which were to be evaluated by the panel. However, the selection tasted, did unfortunately not convience us nor did it promise well for every german riesling presently.

Worldwide, wine critics presently praise the positive development within german wines, which finally now come out of the shadows of the über-sweet ‘Liebfraumilch’ and into the light of delicate and complex modern wines.

The first two wines offered no taste surprise to divert the attention away from the ”Hartzen-look” green ”christmas plate” bottles. Most wines were labelled pass - which may be a hard verdict! However, we give this score based on the criteria whether we would buy the wine again.  

·      Johannishof Riesling Kabinett Trocken Berg Roseneck 2007, Rheingau. Promising nose of raipe fruits. Quite contrary the taste is acidic and “young”. Generally is wellproduced but without any personal touch, hints or notes. 85P - pass

·      Johannishof Riesling Kabinett Johannisberg 'V' 2007 Rheingau. Little nose, but completely without any acidity. The wine almost appear as sweet fruit juice. Again well produced but too sweet. 85P -pass.

Hereafter the experience only got only more and more sweet.

·      Hermann Dönnhoff Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube Riesling Spätlese 2005 (Nahe). Vaguely sparkling and with a slight taste of gooseberry jam. Again more sweetness and little acid which erases (or flattens) the structure of the wine. Its well produced but a sweet experience. Points were 87 (one at 90P). Borderline 

·      Karlsmühle Riesling Auslese Lorenzhöfer 1999 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Barley yellow in the glass and viscous and a funny nose of diesel! Sweet taste and again no acid. 84-85P pass

·      Karlsmühle Riesling Auslese Lorenzhöfer 2007 0,5 L, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. 84P pass